Blank Selection?

[Old Salt]

I asked this question a bit differently in the Salty Dog's forum...

I want to make a rod for bottomfishing the reefs. It was recommended that I look at the 30# test range and 7' length range. I want something that is strong enough to not bend much with jigging weight, but yet sensitive to feel the difference between a bite and a rock. I want to get the good quality and the most for my money, rather than get the best at a premium.

[Grady252]

I would be partial to a seeker 670. 7' blank e-glass, rated 30-50..... a little heavier than you want, but the tip is sensitive enough, and it will have a lot of backbone. If you wrap it with boat guides it would also make a nice tuna stick..... two rods in one.... Might also consider a simple spiral....:twocents:

[okie man]

calstar 700 mh or a batson rainshadow rclb 70m. the batson will run you less than the calstar but if you are brand name sensetive get the calstar!

[Old Salt]

Who would I order from to get all the saltwater, heavy guides, etc.. Maybe you could make some suggestions on guide and handle selection too. I am new to rod building and totally in the dark as to saltwater stuff.

[Grady252]

Who would I order from to get all the saltwater, heavy guides, etc.. Maybe you could make some suggestions on guide and handle selection too. I am new to rod building and totally in the dark as to saltwater stuff.

Angler's workshop in Woodland Wa. 360-225-9445.

I would go with FujiL BLRLG boat guides, or BULG

[Mark Mc]

Here is a key issue to consider.....

When you say "bottomfishing the reefs" if you are talking about shallow water (nearshore, 150 ft & less), that's where the lighter tackle & lighter jigs come in. Grubs / swimbaits on 1 - 3 oz jigheads, and 2 - 6 oz iron / chrome jigs.

With this kind of fishing, you are on the bottom a lot (duh), which means lots of snags. The best way to minimize losing gear (i.e., getting your jig un-snagged) is to use a graphite, or graphite / glass composite rod, with spectra. There is a technique in which you "snap" the jig out of the rocks, and the graphite rod delivers the snap to the jig way, way better than a glass rod will.

Something around 7.5 - 8.5 ft long, suited for 20 lb spectra. I don't know river rod blank #'s off hand, but in a Seeker it would be something like a CLB804 / 706, or the CSW/CBW series (708, 709, 857, 858).

I just tie a small swivel on the end of the 20 lb spectra, and attach a short (~ 2 ft) mono leader to the lure. You'd be amazed at how well the lighter spectra fishes. The jigs sink much faster, less scope (angle) which means fewer snags too. The moment you get snagged, you go from slack, to the "snap" (kinda like cracking a whip) & it comes free almost every time.

[Old Salt]

Mark,

Thats exactly what I was looking for...the shallow reef rods. Sometimes 30', but usually 75-100'.

[okie man]

you'll still want a graphite or graphite composite blank for that. you lose sensetivity with a all glass rod in that application. still say calstar 700m-mh or a batson rclb70m or 80m if you want a 8' rod. fuji guides are great but you'll pay alot more for them than the batson's or pacbay's. pm rooster1264 or me and we'll help you out!

[Mark Mc]

Okie & Old Salt,

As with any fishing & many other endeavors, the starting question is "what are you trying to do...."

Okie, you mention a 700M. I have one of those, along with the rest of the collection, for quite a while. I have never, ever used the 700M for what we call "shallow water rockfishing." It's way too heavy. Now, if I was at the rockpile fishing for lings with a 6 - 10 ounce diamond jig, in 200 feet of water, then that would be the right rod. But for the fishing we do in the reefs around Depoe Bay, or down towards Seal Rocks, we're talking 40 - 110 feet of water. The light gear actually works better in that water.... 20 lb spectra...so obviously, match up a rod for 20 lb. I see guys using heavier gear, and 50 lb spectra, and they hang the bottom & can't break loose, and they hold on for dear life waiting for that 50 lb to explode.

One of my favorite rods for the nearshore is this ~ 20 year old Shimano / Bantam "brush beater"....it looks like a freshwater bass rod, with the reel seat very close to the butt, and the rod telescopes into the handle (hence the "brush beater" part). With that rod and the very thin 20 spectra, you can really feel the fish hit on the drop.

And most important, it makes it a lot more fun versus using a tuna rod.

[Old Salt]

Mark,

Which reel would you recommend to go with the 20# spectra rod? I've been using a graphite steelhead rod with an ambassador 5501C with 12# mono. This setup has a great feel and plays fish really nice, but is too limber for jigging. I've landed 35# lings with this setup with a light drag and it is a lot of fun having the rod bent down like fishing for trout with an ultra light. Not sure that the ambassador is really up to the chore of standing up to salt water use though.

[Mark Mc]

You're right on track as far as.....matching a small reel with the light line. I use the small Ambassaders, or a small Newell. You are right that...the Ambasseder is technically not a salt water reel; I try to clean it well after each use, but I'm probably shortening the life a little. A Newell (220 or 229), or an Avet SX (the smallest Avet) are better choices for corrosion resistance. The reason I like the Ambasseder though is the auto-engage (out of free spool)....since you get so many hits while the jig sinks in free spool, you can stop/engage faster.

[KbarreraJ]

hey guy's i'm john b. , i've been talking to old salt about some blanks but i can't find any info. on these , the old premier g-loomis 6ft. SB- 725 any of you guy;s have any info. ??? thanks J.B.

[The Mick]

ABU's are not truly a salt water reel but like mentioned with proper maintenance they do a good job. I have a 5000D that took an unplanned swim in Puget sound in 1984 and still works as good or better than new in 1974. It is a sweet mooching reel.

[Old Salt]

So the Avet's and Newell's you have to flip a lever to go from free spool to crank (like a Penn)? Are there any salt water reels that operate like the Amassaders that would be appropriate. I do like just cranking to end the free spool. I guess I need to learn to disassemble the ambassader and keep it clean and lubed.

You're right on track as far as.....matching a small reel with the light line. I use the small Ambassaders, or a small Newell. You are right that...the Ambasseder is technically not a salt water reel; I try to clean it well after each use, but I'm probably shortening the life a little. A Newell (220 or 229), or an Avet SX (the smallest Avet) are better choices for corrosion resistance. The reason I like the Ambasseder though is the auto-engage (out of free spool)....since you get so many hits while the jig sinks in free spool, you can stop/engage faster.

[Old Salt]

Are all of the Calstar rods one piece? I looked in the mudhole catalog and they have a great selection, but dont say if they are one piece or two. I was wondering about the GF800xl...8' rod for 10-25#, extra fast. If it is a one piece rod, could it be chopped and made into a two piece rod. I've seen this technique in a book.

[CRD4Liberty]

Look at the Rainshadow SW967F for a two piece 8 ft saltwater blank.

[69scout]

I asked this question a bit differently in the Salty Dog's forum...

I want to make a rod for bottomfishing the reefs. It was recommended that I look at the 30# test range and 7' length range. I want something that is strong enough to not bend much with jigging weight, but yet sensitive to feel the difference between a bite and a rock. I want to get the good quality and the most for my money, rather than get the best at a premium.


Well, if you're looking for a rod thats sensitive enough, yet has a lot of back bone, and not a whole lot of flex. i would reccommend going with a graphite blank rather than glass. Just built one for a friend of mine, using an Angler's Workshop blank, with Fuji SIC boat guides. Everything was purchased at Anglers Workshop up in Woodland, WA.