A few more questions about anchoring...

[Clyde]

Okay, I have got the gist of it now but I have a few more questions to clear up.

Since my boat is pretty small, I plan on simply pulling the boat up to the anchor, while bringing in all the rope to the boat and leaving the motor off until I get there. At this point I assume that many times the anchor will be able to be pulled loose. Or, I will just motor a bit ahead at this point and free it. My question is...Do I really need one of those big floats?

Also...and this may sound really lame...but do you actually tie off the anchor to your boat? I am getting a small anchor pully for the front of the boat to feed the line which I could simply knot the end so it doesn't go through the pully...

Thanks for the input and many thanks to all of you who have helped so far.

[Chrome Bumper]

Through the pulley to a cleat. Yes you can just pull it up. If it hangs up tie to the bow and carefully use the engine to break it loose. You need as a minimum enough float to keep the line afloat if you need to jettison to get away from traffic or debris or to chase a fish. Anything that floats will work depending on scope and current if you don't want to haul around a ball.

Personally I just pull it by hand, have the float and slide thingy in the boat but don't use it.

[stevo]

Get a ball and slider, the plastic ones work fine, pulling in even semi-crowded conditions without one is a pain, and alot more work.
Plus as stated being able to drop off quickly is imperative for fishing and safety. We lost a nice springer two years ago to a sea lion because we got lazy and didn't drop off.

[Boats]

Whatever you do... DON'T TIE OFF TO THE STEARN.

[timinthegorge]

:yeahthat: ALWAYS a very bad idea.....

[tysdad]

Take a trip with your bread dude! He's no pro, but he has been out a time or two:tongue: Congrats on the new to you boat!!!

[Clyde]

Take a trip with your bread dude! He's no pro, but he has been out a time or two:tongue: Congrats on the new to you boat!!!

Damn right! I am planning on it more than you know! I've been playing a lot of hooky lately...watching the kids while Grandma's in China...next week is my first full week back. After that...we're going out when you say the word.:dance:

[KChookem]

...while bringing in all the rope to the boat and leaving the motor off until I get there.

I prefer to have my motor running in neutral. As a Belt AND Suspenders type, I worry about my motor not starting when I need it, so my routine includes starting the motor. Of course, if you have you anchor in hand, you may be able to drop it back down quickly, but then you may be drifting toward other objects, and your rope could be tangled, and ...

Since I'm talking about engines not starting, when switching between the big motor and the kicker, I always have the second one running before I shut off the other.

[RascallyRabbit]

The ball also acts as a shock absorber when your boat bounces around (like after another boater going by you at 50 mph). If your line is tied directly to the boat you can dislodge (or drag) your anchor ast the bow goes up and down. If you are using a ball and slider your movement is between the ball and the boat.

For tying off the anchor, I prefer a clam cleat (jam cleat). If you don't want to add a cleat, you can also buy a roller setup that has a clam cleat molded in. It's alost easier to pull the line out of a clam cleat in a hurry than to try and unwrap a normal cleat. Also remember when anchored keep a couple of knifes out where you can get to them in a hurry if there is a problem.

Steve/RR

[StickFish]

If I read this right it sounds like you are tying a stopper knot in the end of you anchor main line - to keep all the line from feeding through the pulley at the front of you boat? I'm assuming that the line is feeding through a solid ring or something?

If that is true I WOULD NOT do that. If something bad happens you may want to disconnect your boat from the anchor and you want to be able to do it RIGHT NOW. Most anchor rollers like the Motion Marine, Miller Marine and Big Water are all open on the top. Most us a jam or clam cleat to hold the anchor line to the boat so a quick jerk up on the anchor line frees it from the boat.

Another tip, have a sharp knife stored in the bow of the boat in case you need to cut the rope. Also a sharp knife attached to your boat hook is good to have as well to extend your reach.

If you are pulling the anchor and it gets wrapped around the motor, you only have a few seconds to save your boat and maybe the lives of everyone on board. When deploying and retrieving your anchor - everyone on the boat should be WEARING their PFD's. That isn't an option on my boat.

If you have not watched the anchor fishing video, or had someone experienced in anchor fishing show you the ropes - I'd strongly recommend it.

If I sounded edgy to you sorry, but anchoring your boat is one of the most dangerous things you will do with it. I'll gladly take you for a ride on my boat show you how I approach anchoring and let you try your hand at it - I'm sure several others would as well.

[Clyde]

Thanks guys for all the input...it is valuable and now I know why all that equipment is needed.

1. Buy the darn float ball!
2. Attach to cleat, not boat.
3. PDF, PDF, PDF.
4. Go out with someone who knows what they are doing.
5. Staying put is more dangerous than moving!!!
6. Get that knife out of my pocket and some place handy.

This is why Ifish is so important...because now I have a pretty good chance of not being one the the tragic boating statistics...

[tile doctor]

Where can I find the anchor fishing video?

[IDWITHELD]

Fisherman's marine has the video. I think it was great! So Informative.

Also, I have a clip-on serrated blade on my PFD.
I wear my PFD when setting or pulling anchor or if my boat is under way.

Clam cleat is the way to go.
I have mine rigged up so I can pop-the rope from the back (near my kicker motor). Perfect for quick get-away's to go get those fish!

[negoc8]

Clyde, I compliment you on doing the research. I had a few scary moments before someone showed me the ropes.

I zipped tied a plastic scabbard for a stout fillet knife, to the side of my tackle box. I use it regularly, keep it sharp, and because I know where it is at all times, it could come in handy if/when I need it to cut a rope in a hurry.

[Clyde]

What would you guys say is the most dangerous thing about anchoring? To the novice (myself) it seems relatively simple if you are careful...am I right in assuming that pulling anchor is the hard part? I am thinking that I'd like to go out and give it a try around the scapoose bay area. Would that be too rough? I've never been there but my thoughts are that the bay won't be that fast?!? Also, I am not planning on achoring deeper than 60 feet to begin with. Give me a clue as to the danger times.

Thanks again.

[stevo]

The danger is that you can hang the anchor line in your prop or outdrive with the anchor planted on the bottom. The boat than swings butt into the current and you go down. Quick.
This can happen pulling or dropping anchor.
Practice in 20-30 feet of moderate current water, ideally straight flows no eddies and out of the channel. Best to have someone who knows show you how a few times.
It is really simple, but it is also critical to get right, every time.

[Gundog]

What would you guys say is the most dangerous thing about anchoring? To the novice (myself) it seems relatively simple if you are careful...am I right in assuming that pulling anchor is the hard part? I am thinking that I'd like to go out and give it a try around the scapoose bay area. Would that be too rough? I've never been there but my thoughts are that the bay won't be that fast?!? Also, I am not planning on achoring deeper than 60 feet to begin with. Give me a clue as to the danger times.

Thanks again.

It would help to know what size boat you are anchoring and what anchor gear you have not brand specific just type IE danforth anchor 100' of line 15' smokercraft type info. It will be easier to help you with more info.
Mike

[Clyde]

15' Smoker Craft...150' line...8 lbs river anchor (the type with the the triangular blades that swivel and dig in)...4' chain...A1 slider bouy. Looking to stay out of water deeper that 50 feet until I get a better hang of it. Then will upgrade length of line.

[Lead Bouncer]

2 things

distance to depth ratio is at LEAST 5:1 I have the anchor video and I think, they recommend 7:1 Your rope is only good for 30 feet.

Your boat is like a raft to a seal.

[StickFish]

I think you should take someone up on an offer to how do you do this. I wouldn't use that kind of anchor and yest the rope is a bit short. You can get away with 3:1 - but more chain would be necessary in light current. Forget Bonneville with that rig

[dsrice]

looks like you may get a little help from the boater safety class, they lay it out pretty well

they have a flash demo of the whole thing

just a thought

http://www.boat-ed.com/or/course/p3-8_anchoring.htm

[Smj]

15' Smoker Craft...150' line...8 lbs river anchor (the type with the the triangular blades that swivel and dig in)...4' chain...A1 slider bouy. Looking to stay out of water deeper that 50 feet until I get a better hang of it. Then will upgrade length of line.

Don't mess around, get a real river anchor with a breakaway feature (wire ties). Don't mess around, do it right, get 300' of rope. I prefer 1/2", I used 3/8" in the past and alot of people will say 3/8" is the way to go. I prefer 1/2" because it's easier on the hands if you're (50+ yr.old) hand pulling 300' of rope, that's all. Another reason to have 300' of rope, if/when you do stick an anchor you need to pull at a shallow angle, this will get your ties to break and pull the anchor from UNDER what ever it is stuck better. Trying to pull a stuck anchor straight up is a recipe for a: lost anchor at the least, disaster at the worst.

I fished out of a 13' Smoker with a 15hp Honda for 11 years. I fished it in the winter in the Columbia at an 11' foot stage, fished in deep water to 100', mouth of the Willamette. I fished springers and fall fish and sturgeon from Longview to Troutdale in that little boat. Had a buddy that work in a metal shop that made me a custom river anchor with break away, it was 15# and did well for that boat. I now anchor my 17.5' with a 26# river anchor and that works well. I would think that that 20#, if you can find on that small, would work for you.

Don't mess around, keep that 8#er in case you want to got to a trout lake, or fish for panfish, it's worthless as a river anchor.

I'm not trying to be mean here, hope you don't see it that way. It's just that there's been too many times I've seen people, like out at the mouth of the Sandy in fall low flows, with set-ups like you describe....Well makes my palms sweat just writing about it.

Smj

[Clyde]

First off...I don't think anyone is trying to be mean...I truly understand that all of you are trying to help. And it's appreciated.

Second, I don't have a whole lot of cash to throw at this right now...so my stureon fishing might have to wait. (Yes, I do follow the "better off safe" idiology).

Now...more questions to clarify. Are you guys really paying out 500' to 700' feet of line when anchoring in 80' of water? Also, my anchor specifically says it's for boats from 17' to 20'...is that just a sales pitch? And as for the chain...what is the main purpose for having so much? I thought that basically it's going to help from losing the anchor.

Seems like there a lot of gimmicks out there. I've stumbled across a few tests with this one being the best so far...sounds like the Danforth type is the way to go: http://www.ussailing.org/safety/Studies/1994sfanchortest1.htm

As well...Upgrading to 300' of rope...

[StickFish]

Most people using longer scopes are in shallow faster water. When I usually anchor in 50' of water for fall URB's I usually have somewhere between 150 and 200 feet of rope in the water or around 3:1. The current speed where I fish isn't that fast and I have not any problem with my anchor sliding due to not enough scope. I have a 22# rocking chair anchor and 6' of chain for a 17' Lund Pro Sport. Only time I have slid was because of a log.

[Clyde]

Great...thanks again for all the help. I'm at 300' with 7' chain and sticking with the Danford style anchor. I think I'm ready...now for a relatively nice day...

[Smj]

If you're going to use that style anchor be aware....If you start slipping down stream pull immediately. I've seen people slip and then finally hook up and figure they're good to go, no they may be hung up good. The next thing that happens when they decide to go in for the day is their ball goes under from them trying to pull repeatedly. Eventualy they cut the rope and lose the anchor, ball and whatever rope, that's why the break away feature is so important.

""my anchor specifically says it's for boats from 17' to 20'...is that just a sales pitch? And as for the chain...what is the main purpose for having so much? I thought that basically it's going to help from losing the anchor.""

The people that made that anchor don't live in the Northwest, and for sure don't fish the Columbia and /or Willamette rivers. The chain is used to keep the (river) anchor down so that the tines will dig in at the optimum angle. I get by fine in the waters I anchor in with only 3' of chain above the top of my 26# anchor. Also, it may be obvious but, don't knot two 150' sections of rope together to get 300'.


What Stickfish says is what I do also, I just don't care to fish areas that you MUST use a 5:1 scope, pucker factor and other people will always keep me from those areas, in my boat anyway.

Smj

[Clyde]

Yeah, I went out a bought a new 300' anchor line...boy was the wife happy about that...:mad:...I told her I could try to splice the lines, showed her the diagram of how to do it and then explained that I would most likely end buying a new anchor, float, chain and line...:laugh:

I will upgrade the anchor eventually...hopefully when I want and not because I lost it...probably after the first of the year.

I am sticking to the Scappoose and St. Helens area...won't even venture to the eastside or Bonneville for another year or so. I am also sticking to the 50' deep realm...I know the surgeon will be there, I'll just have to work a little harder and learn a little slower.

As well, like many of you have suggested...I now have a very sharp knife within hand's reach of my bow...I have no problem cutting that line at the first sign of trouble.

[RascallyRabbit]

Get a twin to the knife in the bow, and put it in the stearn. You don't want to be lunging for the knife in the bow when something is wrapped around your motor in the back.

Steve/RR

[Willis]

I get my main anchor set well but lately. but even with my sea anchor out behind the boat I have been drifting alot in the wind mainly any one have any ideas for fixing this.

[StickFish]

I get my main anchor set well but lately. but even with my sea anchor out behind the boat I have been drifting alot in the wind mainly any one have any ideas for fixing this.

More sea anchors or less sail in the air