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Empty Pockets
10-22-2007, 08:23 PM
My starter chewed off a few teeth on my flywheel ring-gear this weekend, so the boat's headed off to my buddies at Stevens next week. So while I'm having the engine removed for repair, what else should I have them look at or replace?

Thanks,
Ted

fishkisser
10-22-2007, 09:00 PM
How old is your boat,wood fiberglass or aluminum, engine size , prop or jet ...It would help if you can give more details ... Barney:D

Empty Pockets
10-22-2007, 10:15 PM
Hi F.K. - you're right, thanks for pointing this out.

The boat is a '99 fiberglass inboard/outboard (alpha-1 sterndrive). The engine is a 5.7 250 HP Mercruiser, prop-drive. The engine compartment is pretty tight, but with the right angles, I'm sure the engine will come out without any cutting.

I've pulled a few car/tractor engines in the past, but removing the boat engine looks really tough without the right tooling (overhead hoist, etc) - that's why this one's going to the pro's.

Thanks for any suggestions you guys may have.
Ted

chucks electric
10-22-2007, 11:15 PM
hello, a common cause for missing teeth on the ring gear is the engine ingested water and hydrolocked while cranking but they should find this.

Empty Pockets
10-23-2007, 12:25 AM
Now you're scaring me Chuck - I hope that's not what happened. I guess I'm lucky it happened in fresh water. Do you think I should pull the plugs and check myself? The shop won't be able to start the job for another week (this happened just Sunday).

Thanks again,
Ted

StickFish
10-23-2007, 06:28 AM
I'd check for water. While they have the engine off, might as well service the out drive and check and lube thegimbal

Chrome Bumper
10-23-2007, 11:05 AM
Check the stringers and transom for rot.

Road Rage
10-23-2007, 01:12 PM
I'd replace the bilge pump as long as you're "In" there... Might as well thoroughly clean the entire bilge. Have them check for damage/rot. Inspect motor mounts. Maybe pull the oil pan and replace the seal. If/when I have to pull my engine, I'm going to have one of those oil drain hoses installed on my oil pan that allows the draining of the oil through the hull-plug hole.

Empty Pockets
10-23-2007, 07:45 PM
Thanks for all the recommendations - keep them coming!

fish_on
10-23-2007, 08:25 PM
Rear main seal, water pump, fuel pump, mounts, thermostat, oil pan gasket, any sensors that would be hard to reach in the boat.

Joe Schwab
10-24-2007, 10:35 AM
Install remote oil filer and fuel filter for easier service. Ditto on the oil sump valve to drain oil out the bilge opening. Any wire corrosion should be replaced and well coated with anti corrosion grease.

suckerfish
10-25-2007, 10:29 PM
Same thing happened to me. I was quoted $1800.00 to repair the the fly wheel. I crossed a few numbers and purchased all the parts I need to make the repairs myself. The new ring gear was only $18.00 dollars. While I had the engine out, I replaced the U joints in the drive shaft. Replaced the drive gear and bushing in the starter while I was at it. Also, check your starter mounting bolts. Mine were bent upon inspection. Everything else looked good.



suckerfish

chucks electric
10-26-2007, 12:25 AM
hello, road rage said to replace the bilge pump but i always remount it to make it easier to remove when the engine is installed. sometimes the drive has to come off to give enough room so the engine can go straight up, check the gimbal bearing unless it is greased regularly it will fail. the rear mounting bolts and springs have a specific way to install, don't get them mixed up otherwise you will have an alignment problem. unbolt the mounts from the stringers don't break the mounts apart. this helps ensure that engine alignment stays in place. pull and install the engine as complete as possible this makes final assembly easy instead of working on your head.
install the risers last that way you don't have to fight the exhaust when going back in. before taking the weight off of the lift use the rear bolts to line up the engine to the transome housing. start all of your bolts first the drop it down all the way.
if it did get water in the cylinders you can add heigth to the risers by using extension blocks. the top of the risers have to be a minimum of 6" above the water line. water seeks its own level and will fill the cylinders with a fast shut down or a following sea. boats that sit low in the stearn have this problem, either by weight or design. i recommend going as high as the engine cover will let you.
notice i keep going back to water in the cylinders?

1pump
10-29-2007, 09:24 AM
The starters on Chevrolet engines sometimes need to be shimmed, although you don't see it much on the newer ones.