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View Full Version : The Majestic Metolius River


Deleted User
08-02-2001, 02:30 PM
After staying at Eagle Crest for a few days of golf and activites, we spent mid-afternoon to almost dark enjoying the incomparable Metolius River last evening, on our way home. For shere natural beauty and serentity I think this river is tops - and I have fished a lot of rivers in Montana, B.C., and AK that are great.

It is no longer the trophy fishery it once was. There are still regularly planted rainbows, mostly from 8 to 12 inches, but they do plant a few huge brood stock 'bows up to 10 pounds to spice up the anticipation a bit. [At least they used to.] - The Wizzard Falls hatchery where they grow these fish is a must see. Many ponds of seperate sized trout, including the huge ones, that they charge you 25 cents a handful to feed pellets to. It's worth every penny and then some. My son hadn't seen these ponds since he was little, and he got a big kick out of tossing a bunch of pellets at a time to watch the incredible feeding frenzy last night; and this is a true 'frenzy'! - There are also some large native bows and some very big native bull trout (inland dolly varden) to be caught and released. There used to be native spawning steelhead and chinooks in it many years ago, before the building of Pelton Dam on the Deschutes River that formed Lake Billy Chinook and electricity. I can just imagine seeing schools of these huge native fish laying in the deeper pools, exposed by the clearity of the spring fed water. I wish I could have been there in simpler and purer times.

But as I've posted before here, for me, this is one river where fishing takes a backseat to enjoying the awesome beauty and aura of this scene! It is surrounded by the tall reddest bark Ponderosa Pine forests (my favorite forests), and the accompanying smell of natural pine wood. It is flanked in the near distance by perhaps Oregon's most beautiful section of Cascade Mountains in the Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack wilderness areas, as well as panaramas of the Three Sisters Mts., Mt. Washington, and Broken Top mountains; viewable from some less traveled higher spots right near this river. Perhaps the most unique thing is the river itself. It comes from out of the ground at it's headwaters as pristine blueish hued clear 'drinkable looking' spring water; and it grows along it's path to Lake B.C. with many spring fed tributaries that keep it such a beautiful pristine running river. It has a myriad of little green growth islands and fallen ponderosa's strewn throughout it's length that add such character - and trout hiding habitat. I am not a naturally patient guy, but this place sets me right into a relaxed and pleasured mood such that I can just sit and watch this scene for hours and not get into the move around mode. It's abundant deer, 'chipmonks' (golden mantel ground squirrels that will take peanuts out of your hands in the few campgrounds), and brilliant colored blue jays join other wildlife to enjoy being in the presence of.

Like many people, I first learned to flyfish here; not only because my parents loved to take my brothers and I there, but also because for most of it's accessable length it is flyfishing only regs. The trout were more numerous back in that era and thus easier to catch with minimal flyfishing experience. The hatchery trout are still fairly easy to come by at certain times, but the elusive large 'bows and dollies are the challenge for the experienced trout flyfishers. They are in there!

Camp Sherman is the small townsite on the banks of the upper river. The general store has all you need in the way of fishing supplies, and fly pattern and presentation suggestions; as well as covering most of your culinary needs; including Ben and Jerry's ice cream images/icons/grin.gif ! There is also a first class resterant just across the bridge a couple hundred yards. The river there has a section closed to fishing that has been a long time sancuary for huge rainbows; most from 2 to 10 lbs., with occassional monsters bigger that that! Last night we saw a couple monster bows there thanks to a nice family with 2 enthusiastic young boys that were collecting live salmon flies and throwing them over the viewing platform onto the water's surface. Most didn't last long as they briefly fluttered there, only to have a big mouth surface to engulf them; leaving a big swirl ring in their place. A few survived several feet further along on the surface to just under the upstream side of the bridge where the biggest fish often hang out behind some small boulders. We saw some 8 to 10 pound rainbows rise to swallow the free treats that were the offering of this particular evening. They are used to, and maybe even a bit tired of, the usual fare of fish feed pellets from the 25 cent box of fish feed there. Live salmon flies to these big trout are like a combo of broiled filet mignon steak and lobster tail to us. I did give them a nice desert one year by tossing them many Pautzkie's red single salmon eggs. These are gulped up almost as quick as the fluttering salmon flies.

I digress to a moment of immature fishermen's weakness many years ago in my late teens when I sneaked into the stream behind some overhanging pine branches about a hundred feet above these big santuary 'bows and slowly stripped my flyline all the way down into those big fish; with nobody around of course. What I 'fed' them was a size 8 muddler minnow with a dulled barbless hook. It took, oh, about 1 second after the muddler came into view for it to get smashed as hard as a good steelhead take and briefly play the big bows before they easily tossed the blunted dulled hook. I know, not nice - and illegal. But I was young and didn't think about a big fine and losing my fishing equipment back then - but it was a thrill.

For me, and my family and many others, the whole Metolius experience is at once a thrill, a joy, and a serenity that belies description. It is one of my very favorite places in all the world ... to just be.

Steve

[ 08-02-2001: Message edited by: RT ]

SSPey
08-02-2001, 04:52 PM
nice tale... very nice... but I thought that the Met stocking ceased in 1996? Has this been reversed? All the fish I catch there are clean clean clean. And the famous Cheeto hatch at the Camp Sherman bridge is legendary!

There are some pretty good sized fish in there, thick proportions, though intolerant of sloppy wading and sloppy casting. With the current wild fish policy on the Met, I can't imagine learning to flyfish on that river - not easy!

Deleted User
08-02-2001, 06:15 PM
Please excuse FnF, I'm actually not sure of current stocking policy there. I posted what I recall them telling me the last time I talked to personnel at Wizzard Falls Hatchery quite some time ago. - Good thing I'm not a reporter, eh? images/icons/wink.gif - If anyone knows the current scheme of things there please post whazzup. Thanks.

Evan0505
08-03-2001, 12:39 AM
RT... They stopped stocking the Metolious about 4 or 5 years ago... The fishing has been improving greatly every year. I have also heard rumors that they might be trying to figure a way to get salmon and steelhead past pelton **** and into the metolious,.... NOW THAT WOULD BE FUN!!
tight lines -evan-

Deleted User
08-03-2001, 01:07 AM
Thanks Evan, and FnF. I saw thousands of 10" to 12" trout in the hatchery ponds by the Metolius last night and just assumed they were still planting the river. I now think those fish are likely destined for planting in popular lakes? Or other rivers? It's an active program for something. ... I am glad to hear that the fishing is improving there in recent years. The last time I flyfished it was about 3 years ago when we stayed at the Metolius River lodges near Camp Sherman for a few days; and we did pretty well C&Ring the trout. No real big ones though. Maybe I have to fish that 'special water' for those images/icons/grin.gif . (I can't hike to the far off the beaten path places with bigger fish). We were in the "Newhouse" cabin, which is the closest one to the bridge on the general store side, with a deck that extends right to the river's edge (easily seen from the bridge). Gee, if I had about 250 yards of backing I could have tried that blunt hook muddler trick again right from that deck images/icons/wink.gif . ... Not.

Carver_OR
08-03-2001, 06:07 AM
It's one of the calmest places in the world. I don't have the feeling of having to pick up a rod and fish. We just sit around and talk and walk the river. It's my understanding the river is not planted any more. Pop corn or hot dog buns are also a good bait to bring them to the surface...wish someone made a hot dog fly, I'd start fishing the Met.

Good fishing,
Pat

blackdog
08-03-2001, 06:55 AM
All the fish you see in the hatchery ponds are, like you guessed, headed for the lakes in the area (Century Drive). For the first few years after they discontinued the stocking efforts, the fishing was rather poor, and they had very little natural reproduction. However, every year since, the redd counts have been increasing and the resulting fishing is getting better. Although, it is still a very finicky river. In my opinion, the main Deschutes outfishes it as far a consistent activity, however, beauty is another story. Plus, where else in Oregon can you fish for and hope to catch a 5-10lb Dolly?

Sean
08-03-2001, 09:17 AM
As someone that fishes the Metolius throughout the year 25 - 35 times, I can assure you that it holds its share of true wild, trophy trout - Rainbow, Bull - and soon, Brown (have caught them to 15"), and even some bad *** whitefish!. But, the rules are simple: the best fish are beyond where the average fisher is willing to walk, or able to cast. This is not a good river to start your fly fishing career, however I can think of no more rewarding piece of water to test your mettle and skills, and see if you know what you are doing.

marko
08-03-2001, 11:34 AM
RT did you know Ben & Jerry are big contributors to animal rights and anti-gun causes?

Deleted User
08-03-2001, 06:22 PM
Say it ain't so. B&J's are PETA sympathizers, and $ contributers? Can you say Haggendass? images/icons/wink.gif

Thumper
08-03-2001, 07:20 PM
Steve: Now go on over to the Black Butte Lodge ponds and C&R some nice trout. Nobody complains if you stop by and match the hatch, as long as you release them. Fun. Fun.

BUGLEMAN
08-03-2001, 09:26 PM
Yes, it is an awsome place to hang out and even wet a fly. You have got to try it in the spring during the green drake hatch. Buy/make out of the green foam bodies. They float nice and boy are those trout suckers for them, if you find a few that are rising. Kind of a short early afternoon bite though. But, when they rise there is no missing it.

santiamflyguy
08-04-2001, 12:20 AM
Very interesting that the fish are now back at the Camp Sherman Bridge. All the large fish moved out in the mid-90's and as far as I knew hadn't returned. I've talked to a few local people in the know and they said that no onw knew why they left or where they went, including ODFW. ODFW even took the pellet boxes out for a few years (but I guess put them back now?).

I remember fishing in the first legal pool downstream with large yellow yarn flies. Noooooo they didn't look like popcorn images/icons/smile.gif. There were some bbbbbbbbbiiiiiiigggggggg fish in that hole. Not as big as those at the Dolly Hole @ Wizard Falls though...

Snapset
08-04-2001, 11:48 AM
The Deschutes has ten times the fish productivity, but the Metolius is a Temple, the serenity and peace is beyond comparison. In the early 80's I worked graveyard in a plant in Corvallis, and after getting off work my wife and I would Pile into my old Datsun 510, drive over the hill, and fish through the afternoon hatch, then head home, sleep 3 hours, go to work, and do it all again. The Metolius is a matchless treasure.

The big fish that come up for the Popcorn hatch aren't the only "Jellystone Bears" on that stream. At Allingham (sp?) bridge one day, I was fishing the pool below when several kids started throwing pieces of bread over and the big rainbows moved out from under bridge and started feeding just like upstream at Camp Sherman.

Always willing to improvise, I begged a couple of cotton balls from my wife. (I don't knock that humongous purse anymore)
I tied a dark ginger Hackle fore and aft, with the cotton ball between on a #8 hook, and soaked the whole thing in silicone floatant real well, and well, I caught some nice fish with that "Fly". Bread flies aren't what fishing the Metolius is all about though, so I grew out of that phase.

I used to do real well with an ant, walking down the canyon and dabbing the ant over the bushes along the steep banks. Where the spring comes out of the rock wall is one place I especially remember. I also used to use an extended body deer hair fly for the Green Drake hatch.

With the onset of children, I stopped fishing there, as the water is too cold and deep and with all the cut banks, a toddler ...well you know what I mean. My youngest just finished swimming lessons, though, so I imagine I will be going back more and more. The Metolius and Crooked River are my favorite combination for a 1 day "Cabin Fever" late winter flyfishing trip. The Metolius for scenery, the Crooked for Catching fish.

Deleted User
08-04-2001, 11:22 PM
The Metolius is a Temple - you are right Snap'. ... And Pete, that very lower end along that old dirt road used to be a hangout for big trout and less people. Unfortunate to hear of the current conditions down there. But I doubt they can ever take away the magic of the mid and upper river areas in our lifetimes. Thanks for sharing your thoughts guys. - Steve

Pete
08-05-2001, 12:42 AM
The Metolius has always been one of my most favorite places. The upper river with its smooth glides and weedbeds, the canyon with it's deep, clear pools and magnificent Green Drakes and the lower river with it's challenging vegetation, unwadable tumult and absolute solitude where the Metolius comes to full song and glory. Unfortunately, due to ATV abuse, the lower river is now only accessible to hikers, bikers and home owners. It is no longer possible to drive the 14 miles of single lane dirt road to the site of the pioneer homestead or the remote camping that I enjoyed for many years. I wonder if I will ever again gaze on the white pinacles at the north end of Green Ridge as the evening sun paints them orange, then purple in the fading dusk above the sugar pines and Ponderosa.

sinker
08-05-2001, 09:29 PM
RT, what's wrong with good ol Tillamook ice cream??
That banana split is a good one. Not sure if they still make it or not, haven't had it in a while.
Wish Freddie's down the street had the selection they do at the cheese factory. Well maybe not, I'd be 50lbs heavier then, good part would be a little warmer in the winter I spose.