Gluvit vs Coat It ???

[FM2]

I need to put a new finish on the bottom of my drift boat (16ft Fishrite). I've always used gluvit but have had some interest in the urethane finishes which cost big bucks but sounds like a one time shot.

Anyone with info pleeeze let me know !

[ 10-06-2001: Message edited by: FM2 ]

[Deleted User]

Fishin;
I've used glovit and coatit and prefere coatit. It's a lot cheaper, black and has kevlar in to make it slide over the rocks. I believe it was only about 35.00 for the gallon can verses the 65.00 for glovit. The gallon can was exactly enough to do my 16ft willie. Its been on 3 years now and very little wear.

my $.o2

Good luck

[FM2]

Thanks RB, I am looking for anyone that has used the spray on coating, it is similiar to the material that is sprayed in the beds of pickups.

[HT Buzzo]

Hey Fishin,
I had a thick layer of Armacoating put on the bottom and inside of my 16' smoker craft 3 years ago. Aside from some blemishes the bottom has held up excellent, although it doesn't slide as easy as glovit over shallow rocks. I've also seen boats with that white plastic material used for cutting boards. Its supposed to slide very well, too.
The inside was sprayed to dampen some of the sound of the bare aluminum. It worked great and had the added benefit of washing off very easily- blood, guts, and scales from the many fish that end up in the bottom of the boat. (NOT!).
Anyway, it was kind of spendy, about $500, but it would be less if you were just coating the bottom.

Fishon, HT.

[FM2]

Thanks HT & John, The armacoating is what I was considering but sounds like I could buy alot of gluvit or coatit like rowerboy suggested. I am curious about the sound deadning feature, was it worth the cost and would you do it all over again ?

[Gooseman]

Hey Fishin,
I also had a thick layer of Armacoating put on the bottom and inside of my (rebuild of a 1971) 16' smoker craft about 5 years ago. Aside from some small chips on the rakes, the bottom has held up excellent, although I haven't tried to slide it over shallow rocks, I have pushed the entire boat over logs to get into some of my favorite hunting spots. The coating does make it nice when I get around to washing it out.
The only problems I've encountered with it is where the sand blaster didn't clean the metal well enough. It did seem to add quite a bit of weight to the boat.
Anyway, it was pretty spendy, mine cost me about $900, but it I had a custom color (base for camouflage) made up, and had several areas textured (anti-slip).

[RiverMan]

Just FYI,

Yesterday I finished a new covering on the bottom of my 16' Alumaweld. I followed the advice of past posts and removed all the old gluvit with a large weed burning torch and metal scraper, worked great. I then cleaned the entire bottom of the boat with a mild cleaner and scotch pad. I taped off the boat just below the chine to keep things neat, mixed the Coat It to the EXACT specifications and applied it with a small roller. The new finish is absolutely perfect! I applied two small cans, cannot get the gallon jug here, and it appears adequate as far as I can tell. The finish is very even and glossy. Can't wait to put it in the water. Good luck!!

RM

RM

[HT Buzzo]

Fishin',
The sound deadening quality turned out to be the best benefit of all. Before that, every time you moved around, or moved the net or a rod, it seemed to transmit sound for a hundred feet. Now, its much quieter. I had about three layers put on the inside, close to a quarter of an inch thick, so it does add a bit of weight. I would definitely do it again if I had an all aluminum boat. The new Willies and Alumawelds have that nice bonded fiberglass, so you don't have to worry about it.
Interesting story about the Armacoating. The manager at the local store made the deal with me and gave me a receipt written on paper when he dropped the boat off. I was dissatisfied with the thickness on the inside because it was pretty thin. When I finally got it back in the shop, the guy I had made the deal with had been fired. He had been shorting people on Armacoating layers, storing up the excess, and selling it on the side for a profit. Anyway, after that they put a couple of thick layers on, and really finished the job off right. That store isn't even open anymore.
Hope that helps, HT.

[FM2]

Thanks guys for the info. The coatit sounds to me like the way to go at least for the bottom. I noise is certainly a problem especially when I take doughy's. HT did you have the entire inside coated, floor, sides, trays, bow ?

Also does anyone else have suggestions on sound deadning for aluminum drift boats. I've got a floor runner but the rest of the boat is not protected. Help !

[HT Buzzo]

I had the sides, bottom, bow storage, and interior bow and stern coated. They didn't coat the seat trays or any part of the seats, though, just the side trays. The floor, bow storage deck, and side trays made the difference. No net banging on the bottom or anchors clanging around, and the fishing rods rest on a little softer material. Its smooth on the bottom but kind of porous on the inside, so its more of a natural finish. It stays cooler than aluminum on hot days, too. I'm starting to sound like an armacoat salesman.

HT

[FM2]

Hey ifishers, I appreciate the feedback on the armacoating. Sound is a problem whenever the doughy's are on board, why do they drop everything images/icons/confused.gif then say "oops" then 5 minutes later do it again and then when you hook a fish images/icons/smile.gif they can't reel in the line and put the clicker on so they know they are cranking.... images/icons/shocked.gif ...sheesh this could be a funny topic.
Great info for everyone to read, I will be looking up the armacoating folks !

[Gooseman]

When I received my old sled back from Arma Coating, it looked as if were dipped, and not sprayed. The outside of the boat was smooth(~1/8"), and the interior was a light textured finish(~1/16"), the top of the bow and floors were sprinkled with sand & crushed walnut shells for an anti-slip effect.
The sound deadening is by far the best feature of the Arma coating. Gives a real solid "thunk" sound when something is banged against the outer hull. Next would be it's sealing capability.
I would say that the surface preparation is the most important aspect of the Arma coating process. Gotta have clean metal & wood, with absolutely no oil, or oxidized paint. I have a few bubbles on the floor and transom area where there probably was some gas/oil residue, and one area that I know was not 100% clean of the old epoxy paint.
Any voids can be filled with 3M windshield urethane sealer.
If you're only going to do portions of your boat for sound proofing purposes, you may want to check into the do it yourself bed liner material that is now offered by most automotive parts stores. Not sure of recommended application methods or cost. Again, surface preparation is KEY! May want to have metal sandblasted clean first.

[FM2]

Sorry folks about bringing this up again but winter steelhead season is closing in and I spent most of today working on the DB trailer and scraping the bottom of the DB to put a new coating on.

I decided to use the coat-it this go around. How much and how heavy of a coat do folks use on a 16' DB with a 54" bottom? I bought some but was waaaaaay short images/icons/confused.gif . Any input on this stuff would be greatly appreciated! images/icons/smile.gif

Thanks images/icons/smile.gif

[Deleted User]

I have a question. I recently picked up a Mckenzie wood boat that has been fiberglassed on the bottom. Can I scrape of the glass and use coatit? What is the best way to get the glass off. Can someone come show me? Just Kiddin'

[Gizmo Man]

If you want a more durable bottom on your al. db. try putting a coat of coat it first, then use some f/b glass woven material. Work the woven material onto the first layer and then take the balance of the can and pour over the f/b glass material.

It will give you a long use and wont crack as fast.

Giz...

[FM2]

Thanks Gizmo, I did read that on the can but it said to use that method on wood seams, have you used this method and how much of the coat it did you use?

Thanks

[Gizmo Man]

FM2: I did mine with a gal. Next time i would shoot for 1 1/2 gals just to make it tougher.

A friend of mine did his and said that most people told him that the f/g would not stick to the al. He had his on for 7 + yrs. On my first al. db I had to replace the glove it every 2 yrs. When I put the f/g material on, I get about 7 years. The last 2 yrs my al. db has been in a field upside down and the bottom looks great. I did the bottom about 6 yrs ago. I have a f/g db that I have been using so the al has been sitting. Need to sell one.


If you want to talk about it, send me an email and I will give you my phone no.

Walt

[Gizmo Man]

[ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: Gizmo Man ]