Battery Switch Locations

[Danno]

I want to upgrade to a three switch setup for my dual batteries but Arimas don't have a lot room back near the batteries. I'm thinking of mounting them just under the gunnel as far aft as possible (closest to the batteries). Would a custom built plastic cover be adequate for splash protection? The installation instrutions do note to mount it out of a splash zone.

[dixiefisher]

Dan,
I have mine installed on the back quarter panel that is beside the gas tank panel....I don't have a picture of the switch itself....but If you look closely you can see the switch handle in this picture. This setup has worked great for me!...Good luck

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Arima3.JPG

[chucks electric]

hello, use a bluesea 5511e it combines two switches into one and eliminates the need for an emergency start switch.

[Danno]

Dixie, I was thinking of the corner under the gunnel; near where your (and my) antannae tip is in the picture. I want to keep electrical stuff that could get hot and or spark as far away from the gas tank as possible. But, if yours is exposed, I shouldn't have a problem although mine is in an area that is more likely to get wet. My current single switch is behind the left aft panel.


Chuck, I looked at the 5511e and liked it but was thinking of a three switch set with ACR so that I could completely isolate both batteries, combine them or remove one battery out of the system (in case one battery went south). Do you think that much is necessary or should I just stay with the separate batteries and combine only whne needed to start the engine?

I am starting to gear my boat up for ocean runs next year and want to fail safe the battery end of things. Right now, everything is on one system and I can switch between either battery or combine them. Obviously, isolating the house battery is a good thing.

[chucks electric]

hello, that is what the 5511e does it turns on two separate circuits simultaneously but separately, rotate the switch 1/3 further from the on position and you combine both banks for an emergency start. you will want to keep one battery that is dedicated solely for engine starting. use the other for house loads i would use two house batteries if possible this will allow faster recharges because you wont be able to pull one battery down so far. the 5511e can be mounted through a bulk head thats no more than 3/4" thick with a 3 5/8" hole saw, its water proof and the bluesea #7610 acr is water proof and ignition protected, ANL fuses are also ignition protected.

[Danno]

Chuck, I thought there was the possibility of a battery failing and sucking all of the energy from the other. The 5511e does not allow me to remove that 'bad' battery from the system. I suppose that I could just disconnect it but then I would have to know that it is actually doing that.

That brings up a good question: With Honda outboards, once they're started, they don't need to be hooked up to a battery do they?

You mention the ANL fuses. They come in a 30 amp minimum. Where would I use that? I know I need a 10 to 15 amp fuse between the negative terminal of the ACR and ground but the ANL fuses are too big for that.

What does ignition protected mean?

[chucks electric]

hello, using this type of switch does not combine the house and the engine batteries together unless you want it to. its ok to have a multi battery bank as long as the bank contains the same size, type, age, make batteries. having more than one house battery is a good thing to have. as far as the fuses are concerned you will need to have circuit protection on both sides of the acr. check the specs on the component in this case the acr is current limited but can allow a surge of about 280 amps for a few seconds. this being the case it can cause damage to wiring and other components if there is no circuit protection or the cabling is too small. ignition protection is extremely important in gas boats, it means there is no chance that a spark or ignition source cannot occur from that component as long it is installed properly. also you should never disconnect the engine from the starting battery while the engine is running. this will damage the voltage rectifier or regulator depending on what type of engine it is.

[Danno]

So, the ACR has a 120 AMP maximium and my Honda 90 alternator maxes at 16 amps. Do I use a 35 amp fuse or a 130 amp fuse?

With outboards, I don't need the ignition protection (thanks for defining that) but the gas tank is close enough it will be nice to have it.

[chucks electric]

hello, which acr are you looking at? you need to use one that is water proof and ignition protected. also your cabling needs to match the ampacity of the acr. you want to look at the momentary surge of the device. protect your circuit for the worst case or you may end up replacing fuses.
i don't think i answered your question as far as the bad battery. some times you don't know if there is a bad battery until you see symptoms then test and replace it. this is why you use batteries that are the same make, size, age and type and also why i don't like using 6 volt batteries when you loose one you loose two.

[Danno]

I picked up the 7610 120 amp SI series (waterproof). It comes in a package deal with the 5511e battery switch (7650 Add A Baterry Kit). The schematics show fuses between the the main wires that go to the positive terminals of each battery. Those are the ones that I don't know what value of fuse to use. They are specific about using a 1 to 10 amp fuse for the starter circuit whcih I will wire up.

I have two identical 12v batteries and want to isolate one for the house system and one for the starting system.

Here's the link to the instructions: http://bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990310020.pdf

Thanks for the help!

-Dan

[chucks electric]

hello, the two fuses on both sides of the acr need to be 280 amp ANL fuses read the specs on the acr for the momentary input current its quite high. use no smaller than 2 ga cable for short runs 2/0 if longer that 6'.