Frozen steering

[otter]

I have a 1996 120hp Force outboard with a Teleflex Rack & Pinion Steering System that runs through the tilt tube on the motor. The steering rod is frozen in the tube and I will need to replace he rod, cable and rack as they are all one unit. This would not be so bad but it will be the 3rd one that I have relpaced in as many years:bigshock:. What am I doing wrong? Anyone have any history with this?

[luckyr]

Mine was frozen this year, just like yours. The one that I had was aluminum so I change to stainless. I bought a piece of .625 stainless rod and had the end machined,drilled and polished. I will also clean out the tube it runs in once year and lube. I always thought that the zirts on the front of the motor lubed this area, my mechanic told me it doesn't. He also said to much lube is not good either. Good Luck

[KChookem]

Otter...

I'm on my third cable in 9 years. I literally tore my second cable apart to see what the problem was, and found grease had worked its way over 8-feet up the cable. (As suggested by a reputable mechanic, I had installed a nut with a grease zerk - but this is apparently the wrong thing to do, as you'll soon see). Frequent use of a Steering oil lubricant was just as bad.

In January 2006, Jim at Teleflex's tech support emailed me. "... do not use that Grease Zerk, that is what is making your steering stiff. As you pump grease in the Zerk it forces the old grease and gunk up your steering cable jacket causing what is known as a hydraulic lock."

Jim went on to write, "the maintenance on a cable steering system is done back at the engine. You must undo the link arm at the end of the steering cable, and then undo the nut at the end of the plastic jacket of the steering cable. Then pull the cable by the plastic jacket towards the side of your boat to expose the 5/8 telescoping rod which is the end of the steering cable, clean it off, and clean out the support tube and grease it with a WATER PROOF MARINE LITHIUM GREASE and reassemble."

Jim at Teleflex advised that boats used in salt water should do this maintenance twice a year, otherwise once a year.

BTW - there is a stainless steel shaft inside the SS shaft that you see turning the motor - both need to be cleaned.

I found the "support tube" (the tilt tube on the front of the outboard that the steering cable runs through) had a good build up of rust inside. After sand paper on a stick was not removing it well, I took a big, long rat tail file and smoothed it out (the latter recommended by my boat mechanic is Salem).

[bigtrout]

Mine froze up once but I was able to get it free. Salt water will make it lock up pretty quick. When I am done for the day I lubricate and wipe down the outer shaft every with break free and have had no issues.

[Road Rage]

The following link was posted on another discussion board last week. Maybe it will help you and/or someone else...

http://www.freewebs.com/arima-steering-cable/Lubricating%20my%20Arima%20Steering%20Cable.htm

[D-tangle]

My problem was different. My steering would occasionally stick in the Spring after sitting for a few months. Rust built up in the motor tilt tube, so I cleaned it out and reamed it with an electric drill, a dowel and sand paper. The problem ruined my teleflex drive after 5 years at the rack and pinion near the steering wheel. Here's why: the tube had been dinged or dented, probably by trailering it unsupported, or the last owner hit a sand bar. The ding then rusted inside the tube, putting pressure on the rod, causing hard steering and sticking (locking up) in the Spring.
I finally took the motor to a shop and had them swap it out for a new one. Reaming the tilt tube will cause the tube to get thinner and thinner until the motor weight breaks it and it rests on the rod alone. Talk about tough steering, then. :passout: There should be no rust in the tube if you disassemble it. If so, it is just a matter of time before disaster. Good luck.