Do you toon?

[Wiggley1]

I'm interested in buying a toon in the 4-500$ range. Any imput or favorites? I'm looking at still water, and something that can handle class 1-2 and light 3.

I like the Fishcat 9, the Sportsmans Warehouse 9, I hear Bucks bags are tough to get parts for and there's a 10 fotter at Fishermans Marine on sale but I forgot the name.

1. Is 9 foot a good size for all around use?
2. Are 7 foot oars best or will sixes work?
3. Is the 8 foot Cougar as stable as a 9 footer?

[TheCamel]

1. Is 9 foot a good size for all around use?
Yes
2. Are 7 foot oars best or will sixes work?
Longer is better
3. Is the 8 foot Cougar as stable as a 9 footer?
No

Go for a toon that has an aluminum frame. Less chance of rust and lighter weight.
Get "rocker style" pontoons (upswept tip ends) for moving water.

[FishonDon]

Width is important, as is length if you are looking for a stable ride. I have rowed several pontoons, some through class IV. I like the pontoons that are at least 5' wide. Most on the market are narrower.

This is just my input. Everything The Camel said is right on.

One other piece of advise if you are even considering classed white water; look for the real oar locks. Those that have the oars clamped on can get you into real trouble in swift water. If you happen to peg an oar in swift water, you will want it to break out of the oar lock before it flips you.

[Mad Mikey]

One other piece of advice if you are even considering classed white water; look for the real oar locks. Those that have the oars clamped on can get you into real trouble in swift water. If you happen to peg an oar in swift water, you will want it to break out of the oar lock before it flips you.

Good advice from the Camel and I will second the above. My best friend broke two Southfork(stock) oarlocks(plastic "D" shaped), the first going down the gut of Colorado and the other in the Elevator Shaft(Sandy).

I already had upgraded mine, but since then he put the same set-up on his identical SF. We both use 7ft. Cataracts and got the right stuff from (not sure if I'm allowed to name the company, but most folks in PDX who run whitewater know Judy, PM me for the business info)

Below is my upgrade, brass oarlocks with keeper straps. I had to shim them up a bit with some neoprene tubing from the hardware store.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v143/MikeCowdrey/Img_0249.jpg

The other half of the strap is on the oar-shaft and clips to the strap on the oar-locks. They are designed to save you from losing an expensive oar but will break off if the pull is strong, ie bad situation where it's better to save yourself than the oar.

Also, if you run anything with substantial current, shell out some bucks for GOOD oars and always carry a spare. There is someone here(can't remember his name) who posts on Westfly also, who folded up a stock Southfork oarshaft on the Oxbow float(tame water) and had to go for an icy swim.

Get GOOD oars! :cheers:

EDIT:I had a PM concerning the photo. Sorry, the pik is a little deceiving. I had the boat tipped up on it's side to take the picture. Rotate it 90 degrees to the left and it will make more sense.

[HappyHooker]

I purchased the 10ft Water Skeeter from Fishermans Marine and I really like it. It isn't a Water Ready, but neither is the price. You can find them on sale for around $399, so keep your eyes open.

[FishonDon]

Mad Mikey,
thats a very nice set up. I too use the oar straps, and wouldn't run white water without them. Your mention of carrying a spare oar is right on. I also carry a spare oar lock. Long story concerning my driftboat years ago, and lets just say its good to have spares for both oar and oar lock.