Best Rod and Reel for Float Fishing?

[drifter]

Maybe it's the low and clear water, but this "dyed in the wool" drift fisherman is ready to try bobber and jig.

Got some great floats and jigs from Rainbowjigs, but would like advise from Jigman, stlhdr, RT and rest of you Chromers about the best rod and reel choice. Yes, I will even give up my baitcaster if necessary. http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I would like advise for steelhead and tidewater chum fishing. Thanks, Drifter.

[Centerpin]

Best rods and reels for float fishing.

Large Steelhead and Coho

ST 1265 GL2 with a Tournament Drifter (G.Loomis)float reel. Abu 6500 C3

SA 1363 GL2 with the above reels

Coastal Steelhead

ST1363 GL3 with the above reels
St1263 Gl3 with the above reels

For you Sage fans

3113M
3106



------------------
Support BC Steelhead Recovery... check out http://www.bcfff.bc.ca/

My Photos... http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/RallyRd/centerpin/

[First Bite]

drifter
I started out Steelhead fishing with the standard 8 1/2 foot rod and then took up float fishing. I currently use two custom made 9' GL2 rods for my float fishing. If money wasn't a factor, I'd probably run out and grab a 10 1/2 foot rod rated for 6-12 pound test just for running floats. I must say though that my 9 footer works just fine for me. I don't fish large rivers so I don't need to keep a lot of line off the water. I constantly mend my line so when the float goes down, I usually nail the hook set. In fact I used my STR 1025S (8 1/2' 8-17#) as a back up for Chinook this last fall and landed a large percentage of fish.
I think most people would like a float rod of at least 9' in length.

All of my float rods for Steelhead are spinning rods. In the Summer I'll use 1/16th oz jigs and it's much easier to cast with verses a bait casting reel. I match them with the Shimano Symetre 4000 reel. These spools can be loaded up with over 100 yards of 10# line for winter Steelhead. For Summer fishing when I drop down to 6# line, I'll just put in heavy dacron on the spool first and then fill the rest with line. Save money that way.
In my opinion, floats and jigs are hard to beat in low, clear water. You can tip the jigs with your bait of choice and with a float, you can cover "all" the water.
Good luck and have fun shopping.
Mark

[Jigman]

An excellent float rod that you can buy off the shelf is St. Croix's 11 1/2 footer that's rated for 4-10 lbs line in there wild river series. I've run up to 12 pound line without a problem and the rod sells for around $140. It also works well with light line. As for reels I also Like the Shimano Symetre but I run the 2000 series. Spinning rods are the way to go for jig fishing.This would be for steelhead only, for chums you might want something beefier.

------------------
Fish the best....Rainbow Jigs!

[Centerpin]

I may be ignorant here but how do you guys float fish with spinning reels? Do you guys have it on direct drive or something? In other words how do you pay out line?

------------------
Support BC Steelhead Recovery... check out http://www.bcfff.bc.ca/

My Photos... http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/RallyRd/centerpin/

[First Bite]

I bet you BC guys are scratching your head when you hear us NW Steelheaders talk about using spinning reels for float fishing. First of all I'm strictly speaking for myself here. My typical river that I fish is rather small in comparison to what you normally fish. To me a long cast would be in excess of 50 feet. When I want to pay out line with my spinning reel, all I do is open up the bail and with the help of my other hand I'll ease out the line just enough to keep the float standing straight up. There is never any slack line between me and the float. When I get a bobber down, I quickly close the bail and set the hook. I rarely pay out line past 30-40 yards so a spinning reel works just fine for me. In the past I've payed out line 50 yards, had a take down, set the hook and landed the fish. Using a bait casting reel or open faced reel would accomplish the task easier but for the rivers that I fish, a spinning reel does the trick.
Mark

[superfly]

I am going to add my two cents worth here since I pretty much have mastered the float fishing gig over the last few years and absolutely recomend it to any one who wants to try it. I say allstar 1263, same rod as loomis 1263 but at less than 1/2 of the money, same lifetime warranty and even higher modulus than gl-3 and I would only use a shimano of your preference, curado or higher, the ambassodors just don't cast as well because of the level wind going back and fourth creating drag and they do not compare in smoothness or wieght. those are my opinions, good luck and you will definately catch more fish!!!!!!!
Peace Superfly

------------------
If you want to run with the big dawgs then get your ass off of the porch!!

[Fish mojo]

Superfly,
Where do you buy that rod? Do they have a web site? Thanks!

[Centerpin]

I still might be missing something here. I don't see how you can feel the fish take if you have no tension to the float. Most of the time my float doesn't even go under. It just moves to the side or I feel the fish underneath. I don't see how you can do that with an open bail. Is it kind of jerky as you pay out line? I can see using a coffee grinder if you are only fishing 30' out. Not much problem there.

Are you guys dead drifting your floats?


Sorry for the stupid questions. I just don't know

------------------
Support BC Steelhead Recovery... check out http://www.bcfff.bc.ca/

My Photos... http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/RallyRd/centerpin/

[First Bite]

Centerpin It sounds like we use two very different set-ups for float fishing. In most cases I won't set the hook unless the float is underwater. Most of my missed hits were because I jumped the gun so to speak. When fishing for Steelhead I use floats or sometimes corks in my case that are balanced so the lightest take is going to pull the float under. A lot of the times the cork is barely under the water but I still nail the hookset.

I work the water just like I would if I fly fished. Instead of paying out line most of the distance of a long drift, I'll start at the riffles and work my way down swinging the jig or bait through the shallows and slowly working my way to the tail out. I'll only do this if no one is fishing the same drift. If there are more then a few people, I'll go with the longer paying out of line.
I'll usually dead drift my floats when going through a drift only putting tension on them when I'm swinging them in. If a fish hits it during the swing, then I'll feel the tension but the rest of the time I'm using my float as the only indicator.

How do you rig up? Sounds like you're using a slip bobber method right? By the way, how are your Steelhead runs doing in BC?
Mark

[Centerpin]

I fish 100% fixed float. I now get the idea of what you are doing. You must be fishing off bottom using a nymphing technique.

------------------
Support BC Steelhead Recovery... check out http://www.bcfff.bc.ca/

My Photos... http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/RallyRd/centerpin/

[drifter]

Thanks guys, I appreciate your willingness to share such great information. RT, are you getting this stuff for the book. http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I just got done looking at the Loomis catalog (always a dangerous thing to do.)

Have you guys seen the STR 1445c, GL3, 12foot rod with 8-17 lbs? What do you think? Is there an advantage to using a quality Loomis or is float fishing a place to save a few $$$ and buy a less expensive rod like the St. Croix? Thanks, again, Drifter http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[dummy]

st criox is a great rod i have three and cant imagine any better, but i have never touched a loomis so i cant say it is the best. center pin i am still trying to figure out how you cast those spendy reels of yours. i use a bait caster now but when i used a coffee grinder i missed a lot of strikes because i didnt get ahold of my line quick enough and jerked late but you can cast them alot easier in all condition. plus when you have a fish on the drag atracts a crowd i love that.

[Centerpin]

The ST 1444 is a big water rod. It is a nice rod but I feel it is overpriced for its application and performance. The best rod for the money to date has been the ST 1265 GL2 rated for 10-20 lb. If long GL3's are your thing then I would go with ST 1363 rated for 6-12lb. I have fished with all the rods and have found these two to be the best for their application.



------------------
Support BC Steelhead Recovery... check out http://www.bcfff.bc.ca/

My Photos... http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/RallyRd/centerpin/

[TH]

My vote for the best flot rod/reel combo would have to go to the GL3 ST 1143c the 9'6" is plenty long enough to fish floats on big/small rivers alike.
As for the reel I would have to go w/ the Calcutta 250. By far my favorite reel.

TH
www.thcustomrods.com (http://www.thcustomrods.com)

[meyersbilly]

I have to honestly admit that my fishing styles/techniques are no longer truly Canadian.

In small systems I have found that a spinning reel and a short soft rod works well. Fishing under the trees and plunking gear with the utmost accuracy is the key to success in this type of fishing. The perfect drift through the 4/6’ slot against the root wad and under the branch is ideally suited for the spinning rod/reel technique. It’s kind of like bass fishing; only the quarry is a silver sided slab.

Anything rated in the 4-10, 6-12 or 7-15 category will be enjoyable and a 9 wt fly rod is often what I use. I have gone as low as 7 wt, but that’s when you’ll hook that 43” monster. Happened once!

In medium sized streams you can go either way. I prefer to use a centerpin for this type of fishing because most of the pools are too small to spoon fish and if I need to bottom bounce a centerpin will suffice. Standing on small bars or in the boat offers you enough room to cast and playing out that extra 20’ feet of line may get you into an extra fish or two. The direct contact that a centerpin and levelwind offers is ideal for medium sized streams because you often feel the fish pick up your gear (soft spot) before your float gets dunked.

A 7-15, 8-17 or 10-20 will put you into fish. I like a little stiffer rod if I’m into putting fish on the beach, but if I’m hooking them for someone else I’ll drop down to the lighter rods, for forgiveness.

In larger systems where hitting the other bank is the norm I use a levelwind or centerpin. I prefer to use the levelwind because this gives me the diversity to change methods at each hole/run. Switching back and forth between spoons, jigs, floats and bottom bounce presentations can really increase your hooking and landing percentages.

I rarely leave home without the 10-20 when fishing big water. Putting the steel into fish from three counties away is all I’m looking for in a rod.

[blacktail]

For low water Winter and most all Summer Steelhead I use an 1141 in GL3 and a Shimano Stradic 2000 spooled with 8 lb. Ultragreen.

It has a fairly slow action, but I haven't had any problems landing a steelie with it.
Very forgiving when fishing 6 lb. leader.

Mike

[Steelheader69]

You know, this is no offense to anyone out there, but why does everyone squawk over a levelwind on a jigrod? I've never once had a problem paying out line or even casting one (with a set float or a slipfloat). If you have the tension on spool set on an ambassadeur I can and have outcast all spinning rods on the water. I guess it's a chevy/ford scenerio. Ok, you guys can start slamming me, but I like my Lami float rods. In fact, I have two identical (ones a spinning and ones a casting). I originally bought the spinning rod, but didn't like the feel, and shortly bought a casting rod and fell in love all over again. Here's my choice for rods. I have a lami X96JC-T 9'6" rated 6-15lb. It has a nice feel fighting a fish and the backbone to land a big king if need be. Then I have a Bill Herzog special, an X10MLC-T 10' rated 6-10lb. It's a levelwind also and I use it for those days I want a little more play in a rod when I'm hitting summer steelies or smaller salmon. Both are excellent rods, and in fact I've used the 10' for running small jigs for cutts on the Hoh. Was a great rod and even had some play on the smaller fish.

I've said this once and I'll say it again, go and feel different rods. Get a good feel and check the action of the Lami's, Loomis, and misc. You may like one over the other. Then, if you're not proficient with a baitcaster, then get a spinning rod. You won't get any decent fishing in if you're fighting rats nests nonstop.

Good luck...Jerry

------------------
You haven't lived til you've rowed a cataraft. Friends don't let friends run Outcasts.

[Deleted User]

Drifter,

Ya, what those guys said. And no, I won't use their posts in my book. http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif ...

It obviously comes down to personal preferences that fit you and your style Kris. You are tall like me and I have no problem mending or keeping the line off the water with my 9', 6 to 12 lb. GLoomis GL2 (STR1083S), at least in medium sized coastal rivers. I personally just don't like the whippier noodle like 4 to 10 lb. rods. I prefer the more sensative (in average winter flows that is), quicker hook setting, and more fishfighting backbone of the 6 to 12 lb. rods. I know the noodles are more forgiving in playing fish with light line, but in most conditions using 6, 8, or 10 lb. leader will not spook fish and will land them faster (better for nate's health). If you hold a stiffer rod more loosely, as is proper with golf club gripping, you can play fish successfully with real light line no prob. ... Also, you definitely don't need to waste money on a GL3, at least for floatfishing! For floatfishing jigs/baits while sitting in a driftboat or for bigger rivers I have recently ordered one of the new All-Star 'Elite' series 10.5' rods rated 6 to 12 lb. I'm eager to try it out. May like it better than the 9'? ...

As for reels, I use both a Shimano Curado casting reel and a Shimano Symetry spinning reel. The effectiveness and comfort of the 2 are comparable to me. However, I haven't used spinning reels much in recent years, and that's what I first learned to steelhead fish with, and it's fun again to use them. They also are a bit easier to flip cast when there is little or no backcast room; common on our coastal rivers. CP, I just let the line out from between the spinning reel spool and very light pressure with my index finger for extending the float's drift, if I want a bit of tension on the line. When not, I just let it free spool out as I would with a levelwind reel. I can simutaneously tighten my finger and set a hook fast, then crank the reel to quickly take out any slack. The casting reel does pay out line a bit smoother though. ...

Another thing I do with my casting reel that I don't see or hear much of is use superbraid Tuf line on it for floatfishing; driftfishing too. It floats w/o muscilin on it so mends well, and on long extended drifts the no-stretch factor helps sensativity and quicker hooksets for both types of fishing. It's great line after you get used to using it properly. I haven't tried it on spinning reels yet because of adverse comments about using it that way; but I will eventually. Besides, paying close attention to Maxima Ultra Green mono line works fine. ...

I may use this post in the book Kris, but not likely. - RT ... BTW, I prefer 10 to 20 lb. rods for river chinook fishing and 12 to 25 lb. for fishing these big fish in snaggy tidewater areas of coastal rivers.


[This message has been edited by RT (edited 01-22-2001).]