Painting the old scow

[Tanner]

I have a 21' 1991 Alumaweld Formula V that is starting to look pretty shabby. I would like to re-do the finish inside and out and get it looking sharp again. The inside paint (I cant remember what they call the stuff but it is the black paint you see on the inside of most aluminum boats)has chips and scratches all over it. I have considered having the inside and the gunnels done in Line-X or Rhino lining, but that would probably cost a fortune and the hinges would probably be a problem. The outside has some pretty nasty scuffs and dings on it. Does anybody have any experience with or ideas about doing this? What would be a good shop in the Portland area to take it to to have it done? How much am I looking at spending to have all this done?
Thanks in advance for any replies.
Tanner

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Work is for people who have an expensive fishing habit to support.

[Bait O' Eggs]

More than you are wanting to hear

[Rodman]

From experience working as a painter stay away from the Car and Boat places when it comes to painting your boat. Your best bet is to strip the old paint yourself and prep it yourself. Call a profesional painter who does houses ect. THe guy I use to work for has painted a huge Yaht and it came out like new. When I buy another boat I plan on having him paint it. If I were to prep it I would spend not even half of what a paint shop would charge. Call around. It will save you a lot.

Dave
D@S Custom Rods

[Hoosier Daddy]

I think the interior paint is called Zolotone. You probably have to get it from an Alumaweld place to get the right color. Had a friend that had the same model boat as yours and he did some work on it. Not sure how it all turned out. $$$$$$$$ though.

[Rodman]

The paint you will want to use is a marine paint, which is pretty spendy, however you are going to want to spray it on. Properly thinned in several coats it will look nice. The other thing you will have to do to prep it is back it into a heated garage and make a paint tent for it. You can purchase sheet plastic at a paint store and start setting it up. You will also need to primer before painting. Temp has to be warm for th apaint to set right.

D&S Custom Rods

[DK]

hi tanner, use to paint auto's for a living painted my own boat be careful of what products you use as for primer make sure it a 2 part epoxy not just regular primer as far as marine paint a good auto urethane paint will work just fine like ditzler, put just enough paint on to get even color then use a urethane clear like delglo by ditzler, that way when you do get scuf marks 9times out of 10 you can take bonami and wipe them away without scratching the paint paint on boat is 8 years old and still looking good. any questions feel free ta ask painted for 10 years good luck doug

[Phish_on]

Surface preparation is the key to success. Paint does not adhere well to aluminum unless it is properly treated and primed ... there should be someone who specializes in this stuff. I paint on my boat all the time, but it's WOOD.

You might call Joe at Enviro Technologies. They do bead-blasting (like sandblasting, sort of) for paint removal, I don't know if they do big stuff like boats ... and yours probably doesn't need to be stripped, though that would be ideal I guess. You WILL need to sand ALL of the exterior to remove the gloss from the existing finish.

Joe is a mighty fisherman and might be able to direct you to someone who is a professional boat painter type.

You'll get what you pay for. Maybe it's time for a new boat !

[Gregotis98]

I too used to paint autos for a living (10 yrs) and the inside is called Zolotone, but be sure to spray a clearcoat over the top of it because it chips and peels easily. For the outside be sure to use an aluminum etching primer first or the paint will peel gauranteed! Then any good quality automotive eurethane or enamel will work fine, but be sure to use the aluminum etching primer first. As far as the guy saying a house painter can do it be very careful as there is a HUGE differance.

[Torchman]

Howdy, Tanner!
On an aluminum hull, the primer of choice for bare metal is zinc chromate. Out of all the marine topcoats I have used, Interlux is THE BEST, as far as durability and gloss. If I was doing my own boat, and had spray equipment and $150.00, I would....
1. Take it to bare (toughest part, as ANYTHING left in seams or around rivits will look like *ss!!!!) Use stripper and STIFF NYLON brushes! (NO WIRE BRUSHES!!!!)
2. Two coats of zinc chromate, thin.
3. Two coats of Interlux #232 sandable primer, with light sanding between (fast drying!)
4. 3-5 coats Interlux 1 part Polyuerathane. Thin coats are better than thick, last coat should give a uniform "wet" look, with no sags (about 5 mils)
One tip on surface prep for marine exposure. Too many people want a "auto finish", and prep the surface down to #600-#800 grit. This DESTROYS the surface profile needed for adhesion/durability!!!! I paint ALOT of marine equip, and NEVER go higher than #150!
Frank

[Phish_on]

2 words.

ventilation

respirator

[Torchman]

Phish,
Sorry.....MOST important part!!!! As well as making SURE you are clear of all ignition sources! (ie...water heaters!!) http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[Hammer Bob]

A friend of mine just had his sled re-done much as you wish. A couple of points he learned the hard way. I wouldn't put Lin-X on the sides or gunnels..stick to zolotone (sp). Lin-X does look and wear great on the floor boards though. If you do have the floor boards done make sure they take the boards out of the boat before applying the Lin-X. What happened to my friend was they just sprayed the Lin-X on the boards right over the seams and screws and also overspray on the sides. If he ever needs to get under the boards to replace any cables or anything he will make a mess of the boards getting them out. Also if they take the boards out make sure they re-cut the boards to allow for the extra thickness added from the Lin-X. All-in-all the job came out really nice and was a lot cheaper than buying a new sled......but it still ain't cheap!

ps. He also had his trailer done with Lin-X...looks nice and wears well but I don't know if it will hide corrosion until its to late.

[Tanner]

Thanks for all of the good info. I am part owner of a company that does a lot of painting so I have access to all kinds of sprayers and such. I might get real brave (and energetic) and give it a try this summer.
Tanner

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Work is for people who have an expensive fishing habit to support.

[Master Baiter]

Torchman,

I too am thinking about a new paint job on my drift boat. If you use a chemical stripper on aluminum, do you have to treat the metal after words due to reaction between the stripper and aluminum? Also, my boat like most, has a bare metal and paint pattern combo. I assume that if you want to maintain the bare metal look that you need to be careful when sanding so you do not scar that part. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!