perko switch and a 2nd battery

[olybirds]

Im getting ready to install 2 scotty electrics on the boat. Since Im adding more electric demands on the boat, i figured it was time to add a second battery as well.

So heres my questions. I currently have some of the boats accessories wired directly to my battery. Where should I put those now? If I leave them as is on what will become battery #1, wont they only work when the battery switch is on #1 and not work when switched to #2.

there is a Common Lead off the Perko Switch, so should I put all the accessories off that terminal so they work on either Battery #1 or #2.

Next question is what kind of battery should I get for Battery #2. The battery I have now is a Marine starting battery, but wouldnt a deep cycle be better for the draw of the DR's?

any help would be appreciated.

[Lowranger]

I just updated my battery management system and thought I'd contribute to this thread. As I installed my new chartplotter/sounder I decided that I wanted to eliminate those dreaded "voltage drops" that occur when I try to start my outboard in battery position 2(house) because I forgot to change my battery switch. The starter labors and the electronics blink out. Somehow I stumbled onto this http://www.bluesea.com/ and after a little research I decided to do a comprehensive upgrade. I went with the Dual Circuit Plus Battery Switch, BatteryLink ACR, and a pair of busbars to clean up my wiring. All of these components are mounted on an acrylic panel that cost me all of $12.00 including fabrication. Basically, the #1(cranking) battery is solely dedicated to the starter. All the electronics, dc panel, downriggers, etc., are wired to # 2(house). The Batterylink switch sits between the two batteries and only after #1 is charged does it "close the circuit" and commence to charge #2. Bottom line, the starting battery is always charged and online and when I go to crank my starter the electronics are unaffected because they're entirely isolated. I never have to remember to change the battery switch. A combine option IS available if #1 ever starts to go away. I posted some pictures in Adeline's album for anyone that's interested. http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_a...=view_album.php (http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album206&op=modload&name =gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php)
_________________
Pete

[xdynamite]

:yeahthat:

I have been in the marine industry for quite some time and I agree. Isolate your electronics from your engine. This help will prevent any starting issues in an emergency, thus you always have a fully charged battery to get you home, call for help, and/or GPS long. and Lat. if needed. Your on the right track. Good luck
XD
:cheers:

[Danno]

Hey Lowranger, nice choice of beer in the photo! :cheers:

My recently acquired Arima (one week ago) seems to have one dead battery so while I'm checking that out, I'm thinking of installing the BatteryLink ACR. I already have a Perko switch. Is there any reason to get the Blue Sea (battery switch) version or should I stay with the Perko? What kind of adjustments will I need to make to the potentiometers on the ACR?

Both of my batteries were deep cycle batteries. If I have to replace one, I take it I should get a deep cranking battery and use that as the primary battery?

More quesions:

I don't have a kicker yet but when I add one, does its alternator wire go to the same connection as the main motor (a Honda 90)?

Can both motors be running at the same time? I see this as a safety advantage where I start one motor before shutting down the other in order to ensure that I always have a way to move the boat in the event of both batteries pooping out.