Best Drift Fishing Rod for Chinook?

[drifter]

Hey, TH and RT, thanks for the information about rods in the "I want some gear" thread. It brings up a classic debate for me. What rod to use for drift fishing for Chinook?

OPTION 1: Do you go with a 10-20lb rod for backbone and stopping power, but give up sensitivity?
OR
OPTION 2: Go with a lighter rod 8-15lb for feel, but risk losing a big fish or "pi!!!! off" http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/mad.gif the other guys because you cannot control your fish?
OR
OPTION 3: Is there a rod that does both?

Since I have not found #3, I use #1 when fishing in a crowd and #2 when fishing alone. I prefer the sensitivity whenever possible.

Thanks, in advance, for your thoughts.

"Talking about fishing is better than work, but I would rather be fishing." http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/wink.gif
drifter.

[TH]

I feel that the GLoomis 1025C 8-17 has enough backbone to stop a fleeing chinook... even from the bank. This is a great all around rod... drift fish, back bouncing, throwing hardware, you name it.

Thanks again for letting me play.

TH
www.thcustomrods.com (http://www.thcustomrods.com)

[Deleted User]

IMHO, with todays superior graphite component rods all of them have good sensativity, even the 25 lb. rated versions. I like the classic fast action type rods with the thinner diameter tips. You should have NO problem feeling all you need to feel with a quality 10 to 20 lb. rated graphite rod for driftfishing chinooks. This is especially true if you learn to cast the thinner no stretch superbraids lines. A 20 lb. rod with no-stretch braid is about as sensative as a 12 lb. rod with stretchy mono. And you will have better control of most nooks in the faster currents up the rivers with the 20 lb. rod and 20 lb. leader (they aren't leader shy, particuarly when driftfishing). - RT

[This message has been edited by RT (edited 11-22-2000).]

[drifter]

TH and RT, Thanks for the posts.
RT, would you mind elaborating on the use of superbraids for drift fishing? What brande do you use? What are the disadvantages? Are they better in one situation vs. another. Thanks, as always, and have a good Thanksgiving with family and friends. http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif drifter

[First Bite]

I agree with TH on the G Loomis 1025 8-17 rod. I spool up with 15# test and have landed several Chinook with it this fall. It's my first choice when fishing for Winter Steelhead.

Mark

[Deleted User]

I like the 17 lb. too, just prefer the 20 lb. for the heavier flows when driftfishing and more fishers around are common. --- The up side of the braided lines (several good brands - I use green colored Tuf Line) is they are very thin, very strong, don't stretch, and last way longer than mono due to being impervious to water and sunlight negative wear affects. This gives you much better weight/rig control and bite sensativity. It's a Godsend for backbouncing. It also enables getting down with less weight and less linedrag belly. It gets plugs deeper with it's thin diameter. It floats better than mono enabling easier mending while bobber (float) fishing. On the downside it tends to bury a bit when used on levelwind reels and so it's a bit more prone to backlashes. If you always wind it on firmly with quick retrieves or running it thru your fingers, avoid real light weight use, and get used to casting with it this is a minimal problem. It can be tough to get out of snags if the mainline wraps around things, because it is so strong, but usually it breaks the leader or at the knot. I haven' tried it on spinning reels yet but I don't know why it wouldn't work just fine. Anyone try it on spinning reels? How is it with that application? - RT

[drifter]

stlhdr - have you tried the 1082c 6-10lb for steelhead? Plenty of backbone for steelhead but noticable feel improvement over the 1025. Loomis advertizes as a summer steelhead rod, but I have fished it successfully in big river, winter conditions- no problem at all. Comes in IMX. My favorite for steelies. drifter.

[First Bite]

drifter
I have a custom made GL2 version of the STR1082. I used it for winter Steelhead successfully last year too. When I fish for returning natives I like to have a little more power to bring the fish in sooner so this last spring I had a custom made GL2 1083S 6-12# made. I like having the extra backbone and this rod performed flawlessly. I use these rods for jig fishing so I didn't get the IMX version.

Mark

[happybrew]

RT: I've seen braided lines used on spinning reels, and it seemed to cast well. I've never used it myself though.

happybrew

[TH]

I too,use braided line. 20# Fireline (8# dia.) when drift fishing, and float fishing and back bouncing for chinook.)
flame green 30# (12# dia) for pulling plugs and divers etc. It is extremely sensitive with little stretch.
I feel it really gives me an advantage, (everything that RT said!!! :-)

TH
www.thcustomrods.com (http://www.thcustomrods.com)

[Trout,myster]

For salmon, I use a Loomis 1023 magnum rated for 12-25 pound test. Had to hunt for the rod but it was worth it. Fast, light, sensitive and lots of backbone. Works really good on normal flows (which we haven't had this year!). For low water salmon and all my steelhead fishing, I use a Lamiglass 1310 medium heavy. Good sensitive tip but enough backbone to do something with a fish when it's hooked.

I've tried and use several different lines, still like the Maxima for normal fishing. I've been running P-line lately and actually it's pretty impressive. For spinning reels and superbraids, I use Fireline for both walleye and my smallmouth bass fishing. Works pretty good. Avoid Spiderline or anything else that's "flat". It twists and makes quite a mess. Also, if you're going to use the braids, watch the hooksets! I managed to snap one of my bass rods getting carried away with setting the hook. There is absolutely no stretch so everything goes to the rod.

[Wog]

When drift fishing for Chinook from the bank I have been using a Lamiglas G1314-T Kenai Special for years and it has worked great for me. The rod has great sensitivity and plenty of back bone. I've even used it for bobber fishing on occasion, but I personally prefer to use a more heavier action rod when float'n corks.
Just my two rods worth, Good luck http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[Centerpin]

What kind of reels are you guys using with these chinook sticks? Last year I used nothing but an abu 7000 C3 spooled up with 30 lb maxima ultragreen. A good steelhead and coho rod with a lot of versitility is the Loomis ST1265 10-20 lb. I don't think you guys have them down there tough. It is a little too light for slab chinook so they make another one SA1265 rated for 10-40 lb.

[Steelheader69]

Hmmm, this is a hard one. Do you really want the truth, or what everyone wants to hear? Well, personally speaking coming to lines I don't like the Fireline. True, no stretch and great sensitivity. But I've found it to be way to easy to nick. I've had alot of snapoffs with it drift fishing. BUT it is great line for float fishing. I use primarily Maxima Ultragreen in the #12 to #20 range for Kings.

Now, the shocker for all of you. When it comes to fishing kings I use (and try not to laugh) my old Fenwick F85C with 6001C Ambassadeur. It has great sensitivity, has lots of backbone, and has battled many a big kings and landed them successfully. I have some big sticks for kings, a Lami magnum and a big Kunnan, but I love my old Fenwick (made in the USA).

I'd also like to say that it's not the rod, but the fisherperson. A rod is only as effective as the person's FAITH in the rod. I've seen many people with "horsing" rods lose fish due to overconfidence or underconfidence. Hell, I've landed a 56lb King on 8# mainline with 6# leader. Had it in to shore in 35 minutes. I had all the faith in the world in my noodle rod and just played the fish out. So, I figure, get a few rods, get your lines wet, and see what you can deal with. BUT, if you plan on only doing C & R, make sure you have a sturdier rod. You want to get a fish to shore ASAP, when I fish a noodle rod, I want something to keep and eat. A long fight will wear a fish out to point of killing it. Kind of defeating the purpose.

Enough babbling, tight lines....Jerry

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