I want some gear

[Sand Shrimp]

For steelhead I would suggest a Lamiglass rod, medium or medium heavy action and at least 8 1/2 foot long.I personally use a medium heavy rod for steelhead because it helps you get a better hookset than the medium and you can run your drag a little lighter and control the amount of pressure applied to the fish with the rod or thumb the spool if needed.Gloomis rods are good also but cost twice as much. Both have a lifetime waranty.As far as steelhead reels the Abu Garcia 5500 series reels are a good buy for the money and reliable.If you want to spend a little more money the Currado made by Shimano is a very good reel.I bought one last year and I am very happy with it.As far as Salmon rods and reels go you want a heavier rod for salmon.The Abu-garcia 5500 series reel could be used for salmon but you would probably be better of with a 6500.Hope this helps.

[fish_on]

I just bought 2 Cabela's rods they worked great helped me land my 40#r, they are made by G-Loomis and are only $80, they have great tips and lots of back bone. After some good advise from this board I settled on a Abu C4 6501 reel, the 01 is left handed. I am right handed but will never fish with a right handed reel again. The whole setup with 25#line was about $160, not a bad price to get started with.

[Deleted User]

I would love to hear rod/reel opinions from some different perspectives. If you had to choose only 2 rods for salmon and steelhead, 1 each, what would your all-around rods be? Casting or spinning? What length and line weights? Which brands if your budget was under $100? Under $200? Unlimited? ... The other perspective I'd love to hear is the rod/reel lineups for you serious fishers that have about 3 or 4 rods for each season use; not counting guides who need many more rods? (It's kind of like curiosity about which clubs good golfers carry in their bags). If you don't mind, list your arsenal.

Oh ya, I will generalize my opinions: If I had to buy one rod (at retail anyway) for all my salmon fishing it would be a medium price range Lamiglass 9 ft. 12 to 25 lb. casting rod. For steelhead, summer and winter dual use, I would buy a Lami 9 ft. (I'm tall and don't need a 10 ft. rod to mend over current; I figure lots of you would prefer a 9 1/2 footer?) 6 to 12 lb. rated spinning rod. I'd buy the Shimano Curado casting reel and their Symetry spinnig reel. If I didn't care about spending more for less return on the dollar I would get the G Loomis IMX's or new GL4's coming out (over $300 retail?). And the over $200 Shimano reels. For under $100 I don't think you can beat the Berkley 'Buzz Ramsey' IM7 rods for around only $80. The Griggs blanked rods at GI Joes and Fishermen's Marine Supply for about $80 are pretty good too. There are so many decent reels for under $100 dollars; including the ABU 5501C and Shimano Symetry. ... For addtional rods I would add a 25 lb. one piece backbounce 'nook rod (I also have a 30 lb. Lami 9 ft. 'Kenai Killer', mostly for sturgeon), add a 10 to 20 lb. rod for some springer driftfishing/plugging (use the 25 lb. for backbouncing), an 8 to 17 lb. for winter steelheading on med. to large rivers (and light springer plugging rod use), and a 9 1/2 ft. 6 to 10 lb. light action steelhead plugging/jig rod. - RT

[This message has been edited by RT (edited 11-20-2000).]

[WaterDog]

I like the 7'9" Lami Willammette Special for anchor fishing spinners and wobblers or with heavy IM7's with Abu 6500's. A good 8'6" Med/heavy IM7 with a limber tip for the bank with a 5500.

Right now there is a promotion on Berkley IM7's. You get 15% back if you use a visa card. There is a $500 limit. That's $68 for a "Buzz Ramsey" IM7 rod. http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[ZaQ]

Dupont spinners! And a six pack of Rolling Rock.

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Got any eggs?
ZaQ (http://zaq.4mg.com)

[Deleted User]

Figures Zaq. With such a limp hooksetting wrist you rely on the DuPonts http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif . BTW, yes I have eggs. ... I forgot to mention a couple money saving alternatives for rods/reels. You can save a lot of money buying custom-built rods from second blanks, but you generally lose the valuable rod garantees. You also get some very good prices shopping on-line, such as ForestBay at the top of this BB page, ans still retain the factor warranty. - RT

[plugged in]

He everyone I am just getting started on the Oregon fishing scene. Need some suggestions for a drift rod for Salmon, and a steelhead rod and reel.Any input appreciated.

[dummy]

rt i got a variety of gear for fishing. 10'6 lami billherzog 6 to 10 with a smimono catalist nice set up for light drift fishing or floats. next i have 10' berkly 6 to 10 with a shimano spirex spining reel love the rod can do without the reel, i use it for floats and jigs or for kids that i take along 18# chum has been landed with this set. and for my heavy rod i have a st criox 10' 6" 10 to 20 with a ambassador 5000 drirect drive nice rod very sensitive for such a heavy rod. i love the reel it is fun when you get your hands smacked or can stop a hog dead in his wake before a root ball. for my son he has the st criox with the new abassador ab it has made using a baitcaster easy for him. for dream gear i would like a centerpin reel and 2 13' st criox float rods one for the centerpin and one for spinning and a abassador center drag spining reel. as far as baitcasters i think i have pretty close to the best. fishing is not slow up here sorry its a drag down there.

[TH]

I must jump in on this, as rods are a major part of my life. http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif

steelhead rod, IMX ST 1084C 9' 8-12 fast action (once you have fished one, there is nothing else. fishes floats well too, and I, like RT, am tall... 6'6" As for the reel, Chronarch 100

Salmon, [No Brain'er] GL3 HSR 981 8'2" 10-20 extra fast... I have yet to find anything it won't do. (trolling, backbouncing, bobber fishing, casting spinner salmon/steelhead plug rod, and the list goes on)
Reel... Calcutta 400

I'm going to throw in a bug rod as well.
GLX FR 1086 9' 6 weight great for those summer steelhead on the Rogue.

Under $100 ----
Actually I would save another $40 and buy an IM6 from anglers workshop... reel... 5500 can't beat them for under $60

Cool topic.... thanks for letting me play. I really feel selfish and spoolied, being able to fish the rods that I do... I have spent hundreds and hundreds of hours fishing different rods over the last 10 years, these were, and still are my favorites. Thanks again

TH
www.thcustomrods.com (http://www.thcustomrods.com)

[Osprey]

Well I'll chime in on this since I'm starting from scratch,reel Calcuta 200# original model with the two speed handle,I don't understand why they went way from this ? Rods well I'll miss my series one Berkley but I think I step up to a loomis any suggestions here ,I prefer a 9' rated some where around 8-12 or a little higher,


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Row quietly and fish a Cataraft !!-------<'))>><
Release all Wild Fish

[Jeffhead]

Well I'm prejudiced on this one cause I built the rod but the Loomis STR 1082 IMX that I finished 3 months ago and the Shimano Stradic 2000 is an awesome combination. Bought the blank from the D and E rod Loomis discontinued stock for $83 and the rest of the materials cost about $40 so a $345 rod for $125 or so is hard to beat and it was fun to build. Like the moderate action to it also. What it did was religate the Lami G1000 1306T to the plug pullin' rod, thought it was pretty good til' I fished the Loomis. They both handle big fish just fine. Most of my fishin' is done out of a sled so don't really need a heavier setup, easy to chase the fish. My .02.
Good luck and tight lines, Jeff http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[STRIKE ZONE]

Boy, I think I have about six rods per each
situation.Way over kill if you ask me.But it's a good addiction.
For steelhead my two choices:
8 1/2 med light 6-10 lami espirit summer run
rod with my calcutta 151 left hand with 10lb
maxima and the 8 1/2 med 8-12 lami espirit
with the calcutta 251 left hand with 12lb
maxima.
For salmon my two choices would be :
9 foot lami certified pro heavey with 6501
with 25lb maxima and 8'9" med-heavey lami
certified pro with 5501 with 20lb maxima.
I would prefere calcuttas on the salmon rods
but they don't have a 351 and a 451 model.
Good luck, STRIKE ZONE

[Sand Shrimp]

My all around rod selection would be a medium heavy 8 1/2 10-20lb Lamiglass casting rod with a Abu garcia 5500 reel and a medium 8 1/2 8-12lb Lamiglass spinning rod with a Shimano 2000 reel.These are all rods and reels I already have.I like many people would rather have a rod longer than 8 1/2 ft but I'm on a budget and have bought most of mine when they were on sale.As far as an arsenal here goes,for winter steelhead I use a med. heavy 8 1/2 Lamiglass with a Currado reel and a med 8 1/2 ft Lamiglass spinning rod for throwing bobbers and spinners.For backtrolling I use medium and medium heavy Lamiglass casting rods mainly for diver and bait,I have limited experience using plugs. For spring Chinnok I use a Lam. Kenai special rod for bobber fishing and the same med and med heavy rods as above for backtrolling,I also take my other med heavy rod for drift fishing and a med action spinning rod for throwing jigs.For summer steelhead I use a Lamiglass 6-10lb 9 1/2 ft certified pro spinning rod for fishing jigs and it was a great rod for fishing bait with no weight when the Salmon river (Sandy river trib)was open for steelhead.Now for fall chinook I use a Lamiglass Kenai Killer rod for bobber fishing and for backbouncing a Lamiglass backbouncer rod.For driftfishing I use my Kenai special rod.All the Lamiglass rods listed above are G1000 series rods except for the light action spinning rod.RT, what do you think of the Kenai Killer rod as a bobber rod for salmon? I just bought mine and havn't had much of a chance to use it yet.

[Salmonator]

If I had to buy one rod to to cover salmon and sturgeon...
GL2 HSR932C 12-25 ex fast 7'9". Affordable, lots of backbone, very light tip as it was designed for allowing the fisherman to watch a spinner work while trolling for Tillamook hawgs (very light tip also perfect for estuary or deeper, slow water sturgeon). It is probably the worst pole for bank bobber fishing but probably wouldn't be bad with braided line. Mine are loaded with 6501's due to the extra capacity sometimes needed for deeper sturgeon. BTW just sent 5 6501's to Mike's R&R repair in Newberg last Wednesday via UPS. Was informed that they have already been reconditioned and sent back yesterday. Will let you know how they look when I recieve them... Joe

[drifter]

TH - I agree with your comments about the IMX 1084C. I have one and use it often. However, have you tried the 1082C 6-10lb? This is my favorite (hands down) http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/cool.gif rod for drift fishing. It's sensitivity is better than the 1084C and can still handle big winter steelhead. I use with a Calcutta 251.

My biggest question for you Chromers is -which rod is best for drift fishing for Chinook? I want the sensitivity of an IMX, but loomis does not make one with enough backbone. (Yes, I actually used my 1084C last year to land a 35# chrome buck, bank fishing on the trask, but it took 45 minutes) What do you recommend? thanks, drifter.

[Dances]

My turn
Now I like to use lite rod's for steelies and salmon I use 9' 6-10lb casting the one I got now is from cabelas and it is great I use a shimano curado and it is great.

[Pete]

A word of caution. I've looked at rods all over the place and find an alarming number which are poorly constructed. Every rod blank has a spine and the guides need to be placed on the opposite side of the blank to get proper action. A very high percentage of rods I've examined at both Joe's and Fisherman's seem to be built without consideration for the spine.

To check for the spine, lay the rod tip on the edge of the counter with the but on the floor. Flex the rod by pressing down in the middle with a firm, straight object ... something like the edge of a book. Then roll the rod with the object and notice that the rod prefers one orientation over all others. This is because the spine is stiffer than the rest of the blank. Check the orientation of the guides relative to this spine. The guides should be pointing towards the floor when the rod is flexed against the spine.

[Hookset]

Outlaw, After reading the before mentioned rod/reel combinations, it's very refreshing to read your fishing the old Fenwick glass rods and ABU 6000C and the Cardinal C4. I still have a couple C4's and a C3, but the spool split on the C4 and now I'm using a couple Shimanno reels. Still a great reel though. I"ve also got those same Fenwick rods stuffed in the closet, maybe I should dust them off and relive some by gone days.

How is your glass/reel setups working for you? Any complaints and does this mean you've stopped using graphite altogether?

thanks for the memories,

hook

[Big Willie]

Well lets see here, if I had to choose one for each.
Steelhead: how about a Lami Magnum Taper w/ Shimano Curado, 12lb Ultra green. Good plug rod and easy to cast small stuff.
Salmon: Lami Kenai King w/ Abu 6500, 25lb Ultra green. Good combo for bobber and back bouncing.
RAIN RAIN RAIN RAIN RAIN RAIN and more RAIN!

[Penn]

I've got to throw in my couple of bucks too. If you want a good deal on poles, run up to Woodland Wa. to Lamiglass and get yourself a good used or returned pole. One of my best poles came from there. I like a 9' pole myself for steelies and 8.5' for salmon. As for reels, I've been switching all mine over from 5001C's to 5501C3's. Much better reels. I only have one spinning reel and the wife uses it because it's easy for her to cast. The other 12 are all level winds. But you really should check out Lamiglass factory. http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[Osprey]

I'm am so mixed up now http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/confused.gif after reading all these posts and making the mistake to stop by sportco,they don't handle Lommis ,so I was reel shopping,OH MY....The new Calcutta TE 250 GT is the stuff but at $329.00 is more than I paid for 1st car http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/wink.gifsooo many choices ,I have to chose 1 http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/frown.gif
TH: I will be e-mailing you soon with some questions soon as I decide,If I'm going to spend the bucks I want a custom rod now which one http://www.ifish.net/forum/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

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Row quietly and fish a Cataraft !!-------<'))>><
Release all Wild Fish

[Fish4Fun]

hookset,

No I still use graphite rods, but I like the feel of the Fenwick for Steelhead fishing. I have tried plenty of the graphites but I still come back to the glass. As for holding up one of the 83C's I use is about 25 years old and is in excellent shape. I do from time to time use it off the downriggers for King's when I pull a straight cut plug. Nothing like a big Nooke on that light rod. Glad to hear that guy's remember these old glass rods, they were the ones to have back in the early 70's.

Fish 4 Fun

[TH]

Hey drifter,

Look at the IMX ST 1025C 8'6" 8-17 fast action I use this rod on the Elk and Sixes back bouncing 2oz of lead for fall chinook all the time...No problems, also a good drift rod for larger water conditions both salmon and steelhead
The IMX HSR 1021C 10-20 is also a good chinook rod, but much heavier than the 1025.

I do like the 1082, but still find myself grabbing my 1084's most of the time. I like the fast action....

TH
www.thcustomrods.com (http://www.thcustomrods.com)

[Fish4Fun]

What a veriety of rods that everybody uses. I have went back to using my Fenwick glass rods. FS83C with a Ambassador 6000C for casting and a FS85 with a Cardinal C4 for spinning. The 83C is a great Hot Shot rod for winter fishing too. Soft tip and enough back bone to set the hook when a Steelie hits.
For Downrigger rods I use St Croix 8'6" and 10' glass downrigger rods. Both with Penn GTI 310's.

Fish 4 Fun

[Deleted User]

Outlaw and Hookset, I still have some old friends sitting on the shelves in the form of glass and Fenglas Fenwicks. They rarely see the light of day anymore but I wouldn't have any problem catching fish with them. My first graphite rod, just after they came out, was the Fenwick 83S 8lb to 15lb rod. I caught so many fish on that rod, especially hiking the upper ends of the coastal rivers thru the 70's; those were the days! .... SS, the 9', 30lb Lami Kenai Killer is a great Trask/Wilson tidewater bobber rod. It's plenty long enough to mend line well and it's plenty strong enough to fish even 40 lb. line to keep the big fresh hogs out of the limb snags when you need to. It's a decent backbouncer too but a little on the heavy side for my tastes. ... drifter, w/o mentioning brands or prices I prefer a 9', 10 to 20lb rated rod for chinook driftfishing. - RT

[TH]

I have received a few email from people concerned that the 1143 isn't strong enough to handle big fish.... well

Just thought I would throw this in... here's a poplular clinet with a large C&R Steelhead caught on a GL3 ST 1143S that we built for him. If it will handle this it will handle anything.....
http://www.thcustomrods.com/images/Bob_Darmiento_09-22-00.JPG

TH www.thcustomrods.com (http://www.thcustomrods.com)

[Osprey]

Thanks TH,I gotten several e-mails telling me the same thing about the 1143,hopefully I'll be fishing a loaner this weekend...Os

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Row quietly and fish a Cataraft !!---
Release all Wild Fish --<'))>><

[Carver_OR]

I'm not going to recommend any name brand. I have graphite and glass rods that I really like, that are no brand name. Seems like most have a "feel" that's just right for a particular way of fishing. Same with the reels, high dollar and low dollar. I've used a few 5500 C's that have lasted for 15 years at a cost of $40.00. Try out as many rods with line on the reels as you can, cast them and have someone act like a fish on...each has a different feel.



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Catching is only a small part of it.