Braided Line? *DELETED*

[Bob-Burr]

Post deleted by Bob-Burr

[Codfish]

I use 20lb spiderwire for crankbaits.

[Wreckless]

You don't need braid IMHO. In fact I think GOOD mono will cover 90% of all fishing conditions.

For crankin' 12# Maxima Ultra green or chameleon if you like a stiffer line. This is for the lighter baits.

I use 15# white Big game most of the rest of the time. I like white because it disappears in clear water and you can see it above water.

If you want the BEST, get Tectan from Cabela's. The 17# is about 8# diameter and TOUGH!!!!

:twocents:

[BassinFever]

I understand about losing cranks at todays prices, but braid isn`t what you want on a crank. I guarentee you will lose lots of fish doing that. You need about a 7' meadium rod with a slower taper, and about 10-12# Mono to absorb shock.

[Hunt'nFish]

I use 20 or 30lb Spiderwire and Power-pro. But I have 3ft mono leader blood-knotted on. Sometimes in the columbia and snake rivers I don't bother w/ the leader and still catch fish. But I think clear water lake fishing calls for a fluoracarbon.

I also like to use floating crankbaits, they tend to float off rocks if you snap the line a bit when they hang up.
I personally loose very few crankbaits. But I fish from a boat, fishing from bank w/ crankbaits is a recipe for snags. If this is the case focus on shallow running cranks and cast parrellel to shore and slow up the retriever when it hits the first rock...something like a DT3 or DT4 (DT=Dives To)
Hope this helps,
Hunt'nFish

[Knot in leader]

what Bassinfever said :smash:

[Codfish]

I don't feel I lose any more fish now that I'm using braid than I used to lose when I was using mono. I use a 7 ft medium light action rod and it seems to absorb the shock well enough and the braid casts like a dream. Everybody has their own preferences though.

[Bob-Burr]

thanks for all the help

[BassinFever]

I use a 7 ft medium light action rod and it seems to absorb the shock well enough and the braid casts like a dream.



This is likly the reason you are not losing fish, but if you are fishing over weeds, you may not have enough backbone to keep a big fish out of them. You also may be losing depth with the braid. If you mostly fish 5' or less then this isn`t an issue.

It may boil down to if you are confident doing what you are doing, but a braid on a crank is totally unnecesary.

Tight lines!

[BuKuBass]

I use braid exclusively. The thin diameter for a given test allows by CBs to dive deeper. There is increased sensitivity. Abrasion issues are solved by incorporating a fluoro leader. The drag is adjusted relative to the angle of the rod to the line.
This arguement is much like those who believe that kokanee have a soft mouth. Since most fish for them with flashers and lots of weight, you'd have your lips ripped as well if there was an anvil and half a VW bupmer hanging out of your mouth. It's all relative.

[alanmikkelsen]

I just completed a steelhead season with all braided line. I've went back to mono on most of my steelhead rods. The braid just had too much of a tendency to pack down on the level wind spools (shimano calcuttas) and then would be jerky to cast, unless you let a lot out and rewound it. I have kept braided line on one rod for float fishing steelhead, braided on another for backtrolling plugs, but all my side drifting rigs are back to mono (Ironsilk). I still have braid on two spinning reels that I use for smallmouth, and will probably continue to use it, but I was really suprised the other day when I did some casting comparisons. I used the same 1/4 oz weight on both an 8 1/2' casting rod with a shimano calcutta 151, and a 7' spinning rod with an Okuma reel. The Calcutta has 12# Ironsilk and the Okuma Epixor has 20# Power Pro braid (6# diameter). I could consistently cast the calcutta further than I could the Epixor, by 10 feet or more. And the Calcutta felt smoother. Granted the mono was swinging from an 8 1/2' rod vs a 7' rod for the braid, but the braid was also a much smaller diameter. And the only backlash I had all winter long that I had to cut out was on the braid on a spinning reel. Go figure.

[BuKuBass]

To prevent the line from packing on the spool, you need to keep some tension on it during the retrieve. With my BCers, I keep my thumb on the spool. With spinners, I don't have much of a problem.

[IslandBass]

To prevent the line from packing on the spool, you need to keep some tension on it during the retrieve. With my BCers, I keep my thumb on the spool. With spinners, I don't have much of a problem.



I agree.

Going less than 30# braid is a great way to invite line dig. In addition, step up in # test. I do not experience line dig often (maybe once in every 70 casts) with 30# power pro.

Line dig can also occur frequently after severe snags. We yank with the rod and/or reel hard and often and this is what makes the line dig in. My solution? Free your snags by removing both the rod and reel from the equation. Free spool enough line to work the snag free without the rod and reel.

Another occurrence is when you pull line off after making a pitch in which the drag is set hard. My solution if you don't wish to lessen your drag setting, is to pull off the line while the spool is still disengaged and engage it only after you've pulled off the amount of line you wish. If you get a fish on during the drop, your thumb should already be on the spool serving you as a brake.

With these things in mind, line dig is practically a non-issue. Hope these work for you guys!

BTW, when I do use braid when cranking, I let super sharp trebles set the hook for me and mild tension on the line. They take in the CB and I slow make the line taut and the game is on. I do not find a "cross the eyes" hook set necessary with a cranks and braid set up and I've only lost one bass with it. It was the result of not knowing braid's 0 stretch characteristic! It was the first time I fished with braid not knowing much about it and a crankbait. I pulled back hard to set the hook and the cb came flying back and nearly hooked my ear!

From that day I do as I have described and have never missed one since.

[Hunt'nFish]

I do not find a "cross the eyes" hook set necessary with a cranks and braid set up


AMEN. I personally don't find line dig an issue either, but then I NEVER get snagged. :wink:
Hunt'nFish

[Sandz]

Hunt n Fish clear some PMs you are at maximum, I couldnt send you that pic with Chance in the photo with my bass like you wanted, you can just right click on it and save as if you want (its in the fishing reports section).

[IslandBass]

I do not find a "cross the eyes" hook set necessary with a cranks and braid set up


AMEN. I personally don't find line dig an issue either, but then I NEVER get snagged. :wink:
Hunt'nFish


:grin:

Good one! I forgot to mention that I prefer mono for crankbaits but I work with whatever is in my hands.