penn 113h/114h - short version

[alantani]

a quick answer to a request for a 113h/85/68 rebuild post. the reels are very similar. it's all about the dog spring!

here's the short version.....

1. first, assemble the bridge, main gear, drag washers and all metal washers up to and including the tension spring (#8A) and set this aside. if you grease the drag washers, it will not fall apart.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0692.JPG

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0700.JPG

2. start with a bare side plate. install the eccentric, the eccentric spring and the eccentric lever (freespool lever). no problem here, right?

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0680.JPG

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0683.JPG

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0684.JPG

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0685.JPG

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0686.JPG

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0687.JPG

3. there are four bridge screws. two are threaded at just the tip. the clutch springs ride up and down on these. two are threaded the entire length. don't mix them up.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0688.JPG

insert the four bridge screws.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0694.JPG

cover two screws with your left index finger, cover two with your left middle finger. the side plate should be oriented so that the free spool lever is closest to the palm of your hand.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0695.JPG

note that you can now flip over the site plate and play with the guts of the reel without the screws falling out. you do not need to use masking tape anymore.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0696.JPG

4. flip the side plate over and look at the empty guts. install the clutch springs.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0697.JPG

install the pinion gear and yoke as a unit.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0698.JPG

install the eccentric jack.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0699.JPG

install the bridge/main gear/drag assembly. orient the bridge plate to it's final position just to get your bearings. now rotate the bridge plate 90 degrees counter-clockwise.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0706.JPG

install the dog.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0707.JPG

rotate the bridge plate clockwise until it covers three of the bridge screws. now continue to rotate the bridge plate until it covers just half of the last and final bridge screw.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0710.JPG

see the small gap??????? this is where the dog spring goes. take a deep breath. hold it. now insert the dog spring in through the gap and gently push it down into position with your index finger. be careful not to let it fly off into neverland. ok, it's in. breathe.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0712.JPG

6. rotate the bridge plate clockwise until it lines up with the bride screws. hear the click?

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0713.JPG

cinch down each screw. check to see that the freespool lever works. check the anti-reverse mechanism. when the reel is finally assembled

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0714.JPG

you need to make sure you can get 20#'s of drag. if not,one of the keyed metal washers is probably not seated properly. you have to do this all over again.

http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0669.JPG

[Freakwater]

Thanks again Alan. Your posts are pure gold! http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/beerbang.gif

Freakwater

[Pilar]

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

Outstanding post and timely too. I'm sure I'm not the only one tearing into reels nowdays. Fishing season is right around the corner.

[wthr4d]

Okay that is exactly what I wanted to see!! so what do you use for drag grease, lube oil, and body grease?

paul

[edsr]

It's that little spring, that *&*^$#* little spring that sails right past your ear never to be found again. Great job Alan.

edsr

[Nordic Sun]

BLESS YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:bearhug: :angel1: :applause: :angel: :bowdown:

[Reel Creel]

:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

[alantani]

yeah, it's all about the dog spring. the first time i tried this, the dog spring went flying off into nevernever land. i spend two hours crawling around on my hands and knees looking for it. before you do this, go to pennparts.com and order up a dozen. i have at least 20 that are scattered somewhere in the garage.

[alantani]

oh yeah, paul, and about the lube.

i use shimano drag grease on the drag washers. it's $5 per ounce or $50 for a 16 ounce tub. i know lots of shops say to leave the drag washers dry. don't. i know what other reel repair guys say. but don't. i have a set of 8 penn 113h's that i rebuild 8-10 years ago that are still as smooth now as they were on day one. this stuff is incredible. let's get some drag grease into these reels.

i use corrosion x (at $15 for the big bottle) on the bearings, bushings, level winds and handles. i got started on this years ago at the suggestion of a friend that runs a shop. i have no idea why it's better (or worse) then anything else. it's just worked for me. and i know all the pics show a bottle of reel x. that's just a $5 reel x bottle filled with 20 cents worth of corrosion x.

i use blue yamaha outboard engine grease ($5 a pound) in all the screw holes and on all the non-exposed metal surfaces. i've got a mini grease gun fit with a compression fitting. it holds one of those air filling needles that you use to pump up basketballs. i took a dremmel and cut off the tip. makes greasing a screw hole fast and easy. the yamaha grease is cheap and it doesn't harden over time. it also keeps that pretty blue color forever. i can crack open a reel years from now and know that i've serviced it before.

i do not use cal's drag grease. the only reason is that i still have $200 worth of shimano grease left. that will last me until the end of summer (unless it's a bad summer). at that point, i will look at cal's grease again and decide if i will drop the shimano product and switch over. for now, i consider cal's grease to be as good or better. i've just never had a problem with the shimano grease. who knows?

and thanks, guys. i appreciate the interest very much. alan

[wthr4d]

two questions more please?

Where (what type of store) locally do you think I might find these products?

I have two tubes of Penn Reel grease and another tube of generic reel grease/lube on hand already. I only use the generic stuff in a tight pinch (read as feild stripping) but should I use the Penn reel grease up while Im loking for the other stuff? would there be harm in using the Penn grease on the drag washers rather than the shimano?

I hope thats not too confusing, I know it was more than two questions.

Paul

[reelmeister]

Not to hijack Alan's thread, but no, don't use the regular grease on the drag washers. If you insist on using drag grease on the HT100 washers, use the Shimano or Cal's. We do not grease the HT100 washers here at the shop. In our experience they are a bit less linear in the way they 'bite' during adjustment of the drag. To each his own.

[alantani]

i concur. only shimano or cal's drag grease on carbon fiber drag washers. i can't post links to other websites. a google search should answer your question, or send me a pm.

and it's important that we're not talking apples and oranges.

here's what i'm looking for. i want to be able to hang a weight from the line and have it drop 1 foot every 5 seconds. that's my definition of a functional drag.

here's one example. a 4/0 sized penn 113h loaded to the top with straight 40# mono on a 7 foot stick rated 30-50#'s. run the line through the guides, tie the line off to a 12 pound downrigger weight, clamp down on the drag, reel down to the weight, lift the downrigger weight until the rod butt is raised to a 45 degree angle and back the drag off until the downrigger weight drops one foot every 5 seconds.

a dry drag might be able to do that when brand new, but it won't last long. actually, no other drag system i've ever seen will give you years of performance at this level. even a 10 second blast from a garden hose will foul some dry drag systems.