StickFish
01-16-2006, 02:51 PM
When I first got started in Ham Radio one of the tasks I hated the most was soldering on a coax connectors. I either got it too hot and melted the insulators or messed it up somehow. I went to meeting one night put on by one of the local ham radio clubs and an engineer from Larsen Electronics/Antenna was there and his topic of the night was soldering on coax connectors. Oh great - might as well leave. Its a darn good thing I didn't. I learned how to install these conectors using a very easy technique that they tested clear through 1Ghz on their spectrum analyzers and was strong enough to hold the engineer off the ground - let just say he was a BIG guy.
Anyhow I hope this helps.
This first picture shows the parts of the connector including two coax adapters or slugs. The PL-259 adapter or Male UHF Coax connector is designed to use a whole host of cables from small Rg-58 to the larger Rg-8x and RG-213/214 cables. RG 213 and 214 are .405" in diameter. Be certain that the adapter or slug is the correct size for your coax. RG8, RG213, RG214 do not require an adapter. Since there use in the Marine environment is limited I have left these cables out.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0001.JPG
Secure the slug in a small vice or hold with you hand and using a file or emery cloth - file/sand though the very top coating of the top of the slug. If you slug is chrome plated this may take some time. I prefer to use silver plated connectors as they are much easier to solder to.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0006.JPG
Next using a hot 40 watt or better soldering iron (do not use a soldering gun) tin, or coat lightly the top of the slug that you just filed with a rosin core solder.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0009.JPG
Next, strip the outter jacket off of the coax where the threads on the connector housing are as reference or between 1" and 1 1/4"
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0007.JPG
With the jacket removed
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0008.JPG
Next insert the coax into the slug so that the outter jacket is at the top of the slug and bend the copper shield back against the slug. Make sure you are in contact with the tinned top of the slug.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0010.JPG
Next apply an even layer of solder to the copper shield. Apply only enough solder to coat the wire and melt into the tined top of the slug - do not over due it. You are only soldering the very top, but some solder will wick down the copper shield - that is OK
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0011.JPG
Next trim off all the extra copper shield and file the solder joint to mate up with the outside of the coax slug.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0014.JPG
Next strip the center conductor - but leave between 1/32" to 1/16" of the insulation. If you coax is a solid dieletric - twist the insulation while you pull it off with the twist of the center conductor.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0016.JPG
Next we will assemble the connector - first, slide the outer ring down the coax threads toward the connector, then carefull thread the slug into the connector body making sure the center conductor doesn't get snagged up while going into the pin of the connector.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0020.JPG
Screw the slug and body of the connector together snug and clamp the whole thing back into your vice. Begin soldering the center conductor to the pin, do this in several steps so that the first bulk of the solder acts as a dam - let it cool. Apply some more solder, let it cool, repeat in small amount until the pin is full of solder and solder is wicking up the center conductor.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0021.JPG
Trim off the extra center conductor - and using either a wire brush or your file clean off all the rosin off of the connector. See the yellow ring in the next picture - this is the rosin from the solder - it makes a great insulator.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0022.JPG
Next - cover each hole in the connector body with a little solder - you do not need to fill the void completely - only enough to cover the hole and keep the connector from untwisting.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0024.JPG
Holes being soldered
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0023.JPG
Holes all finished, notice that the solder was hot enough to run into the hole and make a nice looking lumb free cover.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0026.JPG
Complete the connector by screwing the ring up over the body
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0027.JPG
That is all there is too it. When you are done use an Ohm meter or continuity tester to make sure there is no electrical connection between the center pin and the body of the connector - if there is cut the connector off and start over.
Hope that helps.
edit was to add the use of an ohm meter or continuity tester to test the connector
Anyhow I hope this helps.
This first picture shows the parts of the connector including two coax adapters or slugs. The PL-259 adapter or Male UHF Coax connector is designed to use a whole host of cables from small Rg-58 to the larger Rg-8x and RG-213/214 cables. RG 213 and 214 are .405" in diameter. Be certain that the adapter or slug is the correct size for your coax. RG8, RG213, RG214 do not require an adapter. Since there use in the Marine environment is limited I have left these cables out.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0001.JPG
Secure the slug in a small vice or hold with you hand and using a file or emery cloth - file/sand though the very top coating of the top of the slug. If you slug is chrome plated this may take some time. I prefer to use silver plated connectors as they are much easier to solder to.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0006.JPG
Next using a hot 40 watt or better soldering iron (do not use a soldering gun) tin, or coat lightly the top of the slug that you just filed with a rosin core solder.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0009.JPG
Next, strip the outter jacket off of the coax where the threads on the connector housing are as reference or between 1" and 1 1/4"
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0007.JPG
With the jacket removed
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0008.JPG
Next insert the coax into the slug so that the outter jacket is at the top of the slug and bend the copper shield back against the slug. Make sure you are in contact with the tinned top of the slug.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0010.JPG
Next apply an even layer of solder to the copper shield. Apply only enough solder to coat the wire and melt into the tined top of the slug - do not over due it. You are only soldering the very top, but some solder will wick down the copper shield - that is OK
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0011.JPG
Next trim off all the extra copper shield and file the solder joint to mate up with the outside of the coax slug.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0014.JPG
Next strip the center conductor - but leave between 1/32" to 1/16" of the insulation. If you coax is a solid dieletric - twist the insulation while you pull it off with the twist of the center conductor.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0016.JPG
Next we will assemble the connector - first, slide the outer ring down the coax threads toward the connector, then carefull thread the slug into the connector body making sure the center conductor doesn't get snagged up while going into the pin of the connector.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0020.JPG
Screw the slug and body of the connector together snug and clamp the whole thing back into your vice. Begin soldering the center conductor to the pin, do this in several steps so that the first bulk of the solder acts as a dam - let it cool. Apply some more solder, let it cool, repeat in small amount until the pin is full of solder and solder is wicking up the center conductor.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0021.JPG
Trim off the extra center conductor - and using either a wire brush or your file clean off all the rosin off of the connector. See the yellow ring in the next picture - this is the rosin from the solder - it makes a great insulator.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0022.JPG
Next - cover each hole in the connector body with a little solder - you do not need to fill the void completely - only enough to cover the hole and keep the connector from untwisting.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0024.JPG
Holes being soldered
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0023.JPG
Holes all finished, notice that the solder was hot enough to run into the hole and make a nice looking lumb free cover.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0026.JPG
Complete the connector by screwing the ring up over the body
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2006_0116Image0027.JPG
That is all there is too it. When you are done use an Ohm meter or continuity tester to make sure there is no electrical connection between the center pin and the body of the connector - if there is cut the connector off and start over.
Hope that helps.
edit was to add the use of an ohm meter or continuity tester to test the connector